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Where to climb in winter?

Original Post
Remy Aubs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Hey! I'm looking for a place in the US to go climbing in late November. My partner and I are looking to do some multipitch sport routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range. I'm a wimp when it comes to cold so I'd rather not freeze my butt off, but high 50's (F) might be fine. Any suggestions?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105910764/el-potrero-chico
Not the US, but just outside it and comparable to flying to some parts of the US.  Otherwise, Red Rocks/St George area should be cooled off by then.
Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 488

Red rocks and St George could still be quite warm in late November. 

The Weavers · · High Falls NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 10

Check out Southern Exposure guiding service in Mexico

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 392

I can't think of anywhere in the U.S. that meets your requirements.  Sure, some places will have good weather at times, but not consistently enough to plan a trip there unless you are especially lucky with the weather.

Passports up to date?

Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60

Potreo is the right answer. Cheapest climbing trip you’ll ever have. So long as you’ve got a passport.

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

Multi-pitch sport, if that's a hard requirement, is what will limit your choices. 

Live Perched · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 21

Mt. Lemmon in Tucson...it’s got enough juice for a life time. When it’s cold stay low, and when it’s hot just drive higher.    

Single pitch is most prevalent, but if your hell bent for multi pitch, you can access adventure climbs in canyons and faces not served by the Hitchcock highway.  Or drive to Cochise Stronghold. 
Also breakfast at Mother Hubbard’s is filling and memorable.   

Ryan Pfleger · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 25

Red Rock is the obvious answer.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
Ashort wrote: Multi-pitch sport, if that's a hard requirement, is what will limit your choices. 

This.  I don't know of anywhere in the US that has much in the way of multi-pitch sport, especially in the 5.8 - 5.10 range.  Lots of multi-pitch trad, lots of single-pitch sport, which would be findable for the temperature range at that time -- but not multi-pitch sport.


Others have mentioned El Potrero Chico -  that is the only place I know of with a good selection of multi-pitch sport in the 5.8 to 5.10 range in North America.  And, it would be quite reasonable temperature-wise in November.
Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

If you go to red rock you can do the few multi-pitch sport routes there and then head to lime kiln canyon in Arizona for some more multi-pitch limestone. It's still pretty limited though, maybe 1-2 routes in red rock and 3 in lime kiln in the 5.8-5.10 range. Round out your trip with some single pitch stuff in red rock.

Ryan Pfleger · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 25
Ashort wrote: If you go to red rock you can do the few multi-pitch sport routes there [...] It's still pretty limited though, maybe 1-2 routes in red rock.

There are 13 multipitch sport routes between 5.8 and 5.10 in Red Rock listed on MP. Granted, most of these are only 2 pitches. But with approaches and descents that ought to keep you busy for at least 2-3 days, even if you're fast! If you're willing to plug a few cams that opens some longer routes up like Prince of Darkness, 6 pitches, 10c, and Power Failure, 3 pitches, 10.

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56

True, I was looking at climbs of at least 3 pitches. In that case options are limited. If you're only gonna do 2 pitches you might as well just open yourself up to single pitch climbs IMO. 

Remy Aubs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks Guys, this is super helpful. I'll look into potrero. I've been to red rock quite a few times so I'd like to try someplace else for this trip.
I was also looking into smith rock, but maybe that would be too cold?
If I remove the multipitch requirement for ample sport routes, what's your suggestion?

Buster B · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 105

Smith can be warmer in the sun during the winter, but is hit or miss. But if there is good weather there are tons of sport multis for ya.

Steve M · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

Like the above poster stated, Smith can be sunny and warm or cloudy and freezing in November.  At night it will almost always drop below freezing by November.  You will see occasional snow by then as well, albeit not very often.

Julius Grisette · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

St. George prophesy wall has great multipitch sport in that grade range/time frame.

Mark Grundon · · Lee Vining · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 2,076

second for Potrero.
Mark
EPC Guides​​​

Henrik Overballe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Come to Europe and climb around El Chorro in Spain

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Sport Climbing
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