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Cathedral Ledge Lower Left Wall - "Nobody raps here!"


Original Post
Forrest Carver · · Edgecomb, ME · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 85

My partner and I were rapping off a tree with fixed rap anchors somewhere in the middle of the ventilator slab between Bombardment and Funhouse. We could see all the way down the slab, including a second set of bolted rap anchors about halfway down, and there were no people in sight except for a couple on Bombardment several lines over. We heard the belayer yell "What are you doing? Why are you rappelling?" My partner responded 'to get to the base of the cliff' in a snark-free way, to which she responded "You're going to hurt (hit?) someone. You can't see if there are people at the bottom. You can't rap from there." We both looked again and it was very clear there were no other parties in view, and we could see all the way down the low angle slab. In the interest of not making waves, my partner asked what she would recommend we do to get down. She responded "Hike off. Nobody raps here." My partner yelled "thank you" and we proceeded to rap down, passing the second station on the way (and noticing a third pair of rap rings a route or two over.)

My somewhat rhetorical question is, is she full of shit? Is rappelling frowned upon in Cathedral? Were we not at the "optimal" place to rap?

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

A few things to keep in mind before calling the police (or acting like the police)
1. Is someone getting hurt or killed?
2. Is someone about to be hurt or killed?
3. Is a property theft in progress?
4. Am I minding my own business?

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Forrest Carver wrote: My partner and I were rapping off a tree with fixed rap anchors somewhere in the middle of the ventilator slab between Bombardment and Funhouse. We could see all the way down the slab, including a second set of bolted rap anchors about halfway down, and there were no people in sight except for a couple on Bombardment several lines over. We heard the belayer yell "What are you doing? Why are you rappelling?" My partner responded 'to get to the base of the cliff' in a snark-free way, to which she responded "You're going to hurt (hit?) someone. You can't see if there are people at the bottom. You can't rap from there." We both looked again and it was very clear there were no other parties in view, and we could see all the way down the low angle slab. In the interest of not making waves, my partner asked what she would recommend we do to get down. She responded "Hike off. Nobody raps here." My partner yelled "thank you" and we proceeded to rap down, passing the second station on the way (and noticing a third pair of rap rings a route or two over.)

My somewhat rhetorical question is, is she full of shit? Is rappelling frowned upon in Cathedral? Were we not at the "optimal" place to rap?

Sounds like perhaps you've encountered a 3-year expert that is full of herself and knows all. The "Thank you" and then rapping anyway was an excellent response.

jessie briggs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 310

It’s not really common to rap from there but you totally can. I’m pretty sure those slab routes hardly get done, long sustained hard .11s. You guys were certainly in the right there. 

Forrest Carver · · Edgecomb, ME · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 85

Thanks for the clarification. It's even funnier that those slab routes are rarely climbed, as she seemed to think it was some kind of congregation area.

She's probably just one of those people. Later in the day I heard a terse exchange between the two of them that went something like this:

woman: extend that piece.
(2 seconds later)
woman: you have to extend that piece.
(1 second later)
woman: put a sling on that piece.
(3 seconds later)
woman: you have to extend! Extend that piece!
man: (wearily) I've climbed this route twice before and never had to extend that piece
(2 seconds later)
woman: No.

Ocalslay Onlyyay · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,170

Wish we had some names or something to go on, so I could dig up pictures/etc and post them here for ridicule.  That's the best.

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 92

Sounds like a know it all I can police the cliff attitude. Usually comes from people who aren't nearly as experienced or knowledgeable as they think.  It happens all the time.  I was once told I shouldn't get on a route in the Gunks because "It's probably too hard for you."  I guess they thought I was an old geezer.  Funny thing is, Darrow and I put it up in the first place.  If you're sure about what you're doing, and it certainly sounds like were, go right ahead.  

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250
frank minunni wrote: Sounds like a know it all I can police the cliff attitude. Usually comes from people who aren't nearly as experienced or knowledgeable as they think.  It happens all the time.  I was once told I shouldn't get on a route in the Gunks because "It's probably too hard for you."  I guess they thought I was an old geezer.  Funny thing is, Darrow and I put it up in the first place.  If you're sure about what you're doing, and it certainly sounds like were, go right ahead.  

Which route, Frank?

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Like the ranger who Booted Marc Cauvin from  Katadin for not having a hatchet in his kit.....

Ocalslay Onlyyay · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,170
SethG wrote:

Which route, Frank?

Where's my popcorn?

Forrest Carver · · Edgecomb, ME · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 85
Nick Goldsmith wrote: Like the ranger who Booted Marc Cauvin from  Katadin for not having a hatchet in his kit.....

I need the story on this one

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Story goes that Marc chavun was booted from the mountain for not having the proper winter equiptment by a baxter ranger who obviously was clueless to the fact that one of the most famous routes on the mountain is put up by and  named after the climber that the ranger was evicting.  

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 92
SethG wrote:

Which route, Frank?

Forbidden Zone in Lost City

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250
frank minunni wrote:

Forbidden Zone in Lost City

Great route, thanks for putting it up! Did you lead that thing? Would be a bad fall at the start.

Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,261

That's pretty silly for a variety of reasons, but to name one, because for some reason I can't not comment on this thread, a whole lot of top rope soloing goes on at Cathedral and generally one must rappel in to climb out. Hope you had a good day regardless of getting lectured with conjecture.

Liam Byrer · · North Conway, NH · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 80

The bombardment plumb line is a pretty classic place to get two 60m rope ends in your face on the way up. I've encountered a few people particularly sensitive to rappelers in that zone and can empathize with their frustration. you definitely picked the right rap line.

Conor Mark · · Asheville, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 670

The real crime there is the ring bolt on ventilator. 

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 92
SethG wrote:

Great route, thanks for putting it up! Did you lead that thing? Would be a bad fall at the start.

Led it ground up with packs on the jagged rocks at the base.  Took a huge whipper up high too.  Al Diamond was hysterical laughing.  Those were fun days.

john macleanakawhitey · · north providence, RI · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 20

Forrest, it takes 2 to put something into the jerry springer show mode, good job on not going there

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250
frank minunni wrote:

Led it ground up with packs on the jagged rocks at the base.  Took a huge whipper up high too.  Al Diamond was hysterical laughing.  Those were fun days.

Wow, that is righteous! Very impressive. Something to aspire to.... after I've worked it a bunch more on TR.

Tom Sherman · · Bristol, RI · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 412

Shame on you, bet there was only at 47 people in front of you on Upper Refuse.... should have just grabbed a ticket 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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