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First Big Wall Harness choice-- CAMP Warden v Waldo Safe Tec?


Original Post
Oliver Jennings · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

I am about to attempt my first big wall (planning on the Nose, but possibly Salathe) and have decided I should get a more padded harness after some training climbs loaded with gear resulted in raw hips in my Petal Corax (size S). I'm a 6ft tall woman weighing about 135lbs, so I'm a bit bony in the hip area! Waist about 29".

I'm looking at the Waldo Safe Tec and also at the CAMP Warden. Does anyone have any experience with both or especially either of these in terms of comfort and padding on the wall?
The Waldo seems to have the most padding (12mm in waist and leg loops) v the CAMP Warden with I believe 6mm in the waist and 3mm in the leg loops.

And how do people like the double belay loops on the Waldo. I'm a bit reluctant about that feature since I'm accustomed to using both tie in points.
The CAMP harness on the other hand has additional tie in point for daisies which I like.

Any advice or help would be much appreciated!

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

For the Nose and the Salathe, which both have quite a bit of free climbing, I recommend the Misty Mountain Cadillac. It's significantly more padded than most harnesses, but not as bulky as a dedicated big wall harness. I use my Cadillac for all of my aid climbing, whether purely aid or a mix of aid and free.

Nathan.H · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 0

I have a Waldo.  The best thing about it, and other metolius harnesses, is that the "rise" is adjustable.  I have a long torso...so in this harness I adjust the rise and I can hang more straight up and down on overhanging terrain.  Also...it's very comfy.  In the past I rubbed all the skin off my hips hauling and such.  Not with this harness.

However...it's super bulky and not great for free climbing.

In wall climbing...one key thing is to fit and tighten your harness so the waist belt is above your hips on the waist.  That way the harness doesn't rub on your hips and also it doesn't slide down with all the weight on it.

Also...make sure the harness has room to be tightened an inch or more than when you start the wall.  You tend to lose weight (maybe just water weight) on the wall and get thinner.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 11

Yates Astroman or Shield. Burly/comfortable and in line with MM pricing.

Gargano · · Arizona · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 1,414

Yates Shield. Yup. That's the one. 

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 367

The Cassin Warden was no good for me. Not sure if it was the fit or what, but I personally wouldn't recommend.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290
DrRockso wrote: The Cassin Warden was no good for me. Not sure if it was the fit or what, but I personally wouldn't recommend.

What made it no good?  Looking for a beefier harness for replacing bolts and new routes and looking for a harness that will be a little more comfy to hang in for long periods.  I have the BD Big Gun but the leg loop adjustment straps are horrible and it's just starting to get worn out.   I do like the idea of the daisy loops on the Warden to keep the cluster down.

Rob warden The space lizard · · Now...where? · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

I ripped the gear loops off a warden 

Taylor Spiegelberg · · Lander & Sheridan, WY · Joined May 2012 · Points: 1,501

I've hung in my Waldo forever while bolting. It's honestly been a huge change. I used to have to come down and rest when hanging in a normal harness, this one let's me stay up for days!

Perry Norris · · Truckee · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 45

Another vote for the Cadillac. And you
ll use it cragging too!

Jon Cheifitz · · Superior, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 65

Another plus for the Yates Shield. For me, its been very comfortable and functional for varying disciplines. Unless you have already ruled it out for some reason, give it a look. 

Oliver Jennings · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks, everyone, for all of the info! This is super helpful.

PatMas · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

The wardens buckles dog into my hips. They had a few good ideas, but it’s a much better easy multi pitch harness than a wall harness

DrRockso · · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 367
Kevin Mokracek wrote:

What made it no good?  Looking for a beefier harness for replacing bolts and new routes and looking for a harness that will be a little more comfy to hang in for long periods.  I have the BD Big Gun but the leg loop adjustment straps are horrible and it's just starting to get worn out.   I do like the idea of the daisy loops on the Warden to keep the cluster down.

What others have said, generally was just never that comfortable for me. I'd practically rather hang in my Petzl Sama.

Philip Magistro · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

I find my Warden suitable for pure aid climbing, but the gear loops are pushed so far back because of the daisy attachments that it is difficult to access gear when free climbing.  

I would lean towards a trimmer wall harness for the Nose or any wall where you may be free climbing large blocks.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 11

The Yates Shield is better if you are going to more straight aid, hanging belays etc. The Astroman is still beefy and comfortable enough to hang around in, but is vastly lighter and less bulky.

I have used the MM Cadillac, and I feel the sweet spot is for multi-pitch trad, racking on your harness. Less good for aid, the fleece on the swami made me sweat too much and irritated my skin when I took my shirt off. The foam on the Yates is better.

Now I use a MM Turbo and rack on a sling for longer trad routes, so the harness is less important for space.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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