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Hunting belay plate for 7.3mm twins


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Micaiah . · · Drake, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 5

I picked up a pair of Beal Gulley 7.3mm ropes for the upcoming winter season. Purchased some DMM Pivot belay plates, with Rhino biners to use with these ropes. Testing the friction on a free hanging rap, the rope was very difficult to brake. It took two h shaped Petzl Attache biners to provide what felt like a safe amount of friction for belay or rap. Two biners is cumbersome; I'd much rather find a solution that works with just one.

Has anyone tried a belay plate with these ropes that they recommend for use without doubling up biners? I suppose I could be patient,  two more brands are launching their own skinny rope belay devices this winter.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490

Climbing technology alpine up.

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 617
Andrewww · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

+1 for the micro jul. use it exclusively with my 7.8 sterling photons. Designed to work down to 6.9

Tyler Newcomb · · Burlington · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 86

Another +1 for the micro jul. Used it on 7.5 halves and works like a charm. 

Linnaeus · · NZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

DMM Bugette. 

Micaiah . · · Drake, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 5

Jim, your review of the alpine up a while back was not very favorable. You sure you'd recommend it?

Micro Jul users,  have you tried it with the Beal Gulley ropes?

DMM Bugette has been out of production for some time Linnaeus

Dallin Carey · · Missoula · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 157

My partner uses Gulleys and bought the Micro specifically for them. Works great. 

John Barritt · · OKC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 1,080

Omega Pacific, SBG2

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
Micaiah W wrote: Jim, your review of the alpine up a while back was not very favorable. You sure you'd recommend it?

Micro Jul users,  have you tried it with the Beal Gulley ropes?

DMM Bugette has been out of production for some time Linnaeus

Well it´s got the best braking performance of the devices I tested with thin ropes. On the other hand it´not suitable for trad climbing according to the manufacturers and I´ve no interest in this style of locking belay device for trad climbing either. Personally I just use an ATC XP with multiple karabiners with my 7.8mm ropes. For thinner ropes I´d just make something or drag one of my prototypes out of the cupboard  

I haven´t bothered to test the Omega Pacific SBG thing, someone else measured it´s performance years ago and it was average (lower braking force than an ATC XP) AND you can´t add extra karabiners if needed.
Micaiah . · · Drake, CO · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 5
Jim Titt wrote:

Well it´s got the best braking performance of the devices I tested with thin ropes. On the other hand it´not suitable for trad climbing according to the manufacturers and I´ve no interest in this style of locking belay device for trad climbing either. Personally I just use an ATC XP with multiple karabiners with my 7.8mm ropes. For thinner ropes I´d just make something or drag one of my prototypes out of the cupboard  

I haven´t bothered to test the Omega Pacific SBG thing, someone else measured it´s performance years ago and it was average (lower braking force than an ATC XP) AND you can´t add extra karabiners if needed.

Not suitable for trad? Yeah,  that removes it from the list of contenders. No reason I can think of to use skinny twins for sport or TR climbs. I don't seem to do much sport, the alpine stuff around me is just too good

phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 617

If you do buy the Microjul, or Megajul for that matter, be sure to actually read the instruction manual.  Somebody in some other thread had the retainer loop tear out because they were using it to pull up on the device when rappelling, rather than lifting up on the nose with a biner.  I just use the palm of my hand to lift the device on steep things with skinny ropes - that usually all the release that's needed.  

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

The CT Alpine Up is not suitable for trad in the same sense that Grigris are not suitable for trad---the braking performance leads to higher anchor loads than you get when the rope slips through an ATC.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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