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Gear for Yangshuo

Original Post
Thomas Gibson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Hi all,

I am currently on Kalymnos and will be heading to China soon and saw a post that gear is expensive there. As a valley climber I am always looking to get on some multipitch I have 14 draws and a 60m rope, is this enough for Yangshuo? Should I supplement with a couple cams/nuts? I have a buddy meeting me for a week and have the chance for him to resupply me.


Jim Howe · · Salt Lake city · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 118

I was there in 2004.  You would appreciate having a single set of cams and nuts to supplement.  The routes were bolted often by climbers who kept "sporty" in sport climbing and often a mix of gear and bolts was to be expected on many routes.  I've looked at my old guidebook  "rock climbing in Yangshuo" (2004) by Paul Collis, and at that time it was the authors suggestion to have some rack.
There will likely been a big upsurge in activity and routes there in the last 14 years.  However,even then it was possible to just climb with a rack of draws in some places, depending on your route and area choices.
Enjoy it there, it was an awesome place to visit, despite the air pollution!

DustinM · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 10

I was in Yangshou for most of September in 2017.  I went through my guidebook (2015 print) and the highest number of required draws was 20 (Nine Horses, Tuo Bei Shan, Wall of Demand).  If you stay at the Climber's Inn (i highly recommend it, Lily is awesome), you'll meet others who you might be able to borrow draws from if you're unable to bring enough.  It's extremely hot and humid - chalk is cheap but in short supply so if you have room for it, bring some extra.  Some of the limestone is sharp (and some really greasy) so I'd bring an extra pair of climbing shoes or get a resole before you go.  Other than that, I would suggest a 70m rope if you're planning on doing a lot of the multi-pitch.  If you can get to Getu, do it!  Send me a message if you want any more info.  I had a blast when I was there.

I'm deciding whether or not to go to Kalymnos this fall, any chance you could provide me with some info?  What're the living costs like - daily costs for food, cheapest accommodations, any other costs i should consider?  Thanks!

Thomas Gibson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

I had written a long winded response but had a server error and it did not go out. Since I want to go get on the rock I'll summarize in bullet points for you!
- We are staying for $29 a night at maria studios through airbnb but you can contact her from her website
- scooters are about 15 euro a day though you can negotiate weekly rates
- groceries are about the same price as home (maybe a bit more)
- botted water is a must for drinking but you can buy a couple big jugs and refill them at the machines in town which the one on the south end of town is broken and free
- a meal at a restaurant is 8-10 euro with cocktails around the same price
- gyros is what you will mainly be living off of if your like us and you can get one for less than 3 euro and a beer for about the same price
- the ferry to telendos is 2 euro and over an hour walk to the crags or you can pay 6 euro to go directly there if there is enough climbers (30 euro min)
- if you want to deep water solo, there are kayaks for rent in Vathis (great cliffs next to the port) for 5 euro for the first hour and 10 every hour after that or 50 euro a day (we got our fill in 3 hours)
- guidebook here is 40 euro but is pretty comprehensive and beautiful at that
- there is a laundry mat and it is 6 euro per load and 4 to dry ( be careful of metal clothes lines because they will leave rust on all of your clothes)
-If you climb <5.12 a 60m rope and 14 draws will get you on 96% of the routes, though if you crush bring an 80 and 20 draws for the gym spaced bolts
- approach shoes or at least tevas is a must as the rock is sharp and the bushes are assholes that will leave thorns deep in you if you slip or loose a flip flop

Thanks for the responses!

sketchydrew · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 21

Hey guys, great to hear you either were in Yangshuo before or are planning to come here. Im Andrew, one of the main developers here and also the new guidebook author. I will confirm and object to some of what was written above... Equipment: i recommend a 70m rope and 20draws, but if you are only here for a week a 60m and 14 draws is fine. If you project routes and like to leave draws hanging while checking out other crags then obviously you'll need more. Climbers Inn is excellent but dont feel committed, there are plenty of places to stay. People are usually renting or purchasing motorbikes these days for convenience. You can always sell them back before you leave. regarding a rack: there are only 2 multi-pitch mixed routes in the entirety of yangshuo and they are rated at 5.12+ and 13-. There are also a handful of developed trad routes (suggested rack: BD .3 to 4, and a set of nuts). But besides that...the remaining 850 sport routes are all safely equipped with bolts. There's no need for any trad gear if you are coming for a few weeks unless of course you are planning to go to Liming as well which is sandstone cracks....similar to Indian Creek but not really..HAHA!

If you are in the USA, please contact me directly to purchase the book, but you can also use the following links...

Yangshuo Rock - A China Climbing Guide is available at:
Link to the Digital APP

Links to purchase the Book
UK and Western/Northern Europe
Most of Europe

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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