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Meltdown 5.14c curiosity


· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
DRusso wrote:

This is classic male ego and its funny how often you hear this, but only when a woman does something first. Some guy will always find a way to rationalize why they can't do it.

If it just came down to having small fingers one of the young teenage crushers would have done it. The climb is hard and the gear is hard to suss out because the placements are exactly where any "good" hold is.

There are also just not that many 5.14+ trad climbers out there. 

As a guy with tiny hands a womens small hands would would make this route alot easier. I don't climb 5.14 but looking at alot of the video it looks like a jug haul alot of the way up for my hands. Alot of my friends probably would be lucky to get 1 full finger on some of the holds. Common for my friends to climb a problem using big reaches and pitches that my hand would not be able to do and I fall back to tiny foot holds to crimp and make my own path to the top.

Lets face it so few routes at this level get climbed you can't really grade them outside a personal how hard is it to me because you can't really average out a grade from 10 people or less.
Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,460
reboot wrote:

Depending on where you are. But seriously, this really isn't the thread for it: Beth's climbing achievement stands by itself, no need to drag her private affairs into this. You & Ted should both delete your posts (Ted for replying to a trolling post). 

So, you're saying we should start a separate thread to examine the personal lives of the climbing stars?? How about we call it DWZ or Dawn Wall Zone?

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,186
ViperScale . wrote:

As a guy with tiny hands a womens small hands would would make this route alot easier. I don't climb 5.14 but looking at alot of the video it looks like a jug haul alot of the way up for my hands. Alot of my friends probably would be lucky to get 1 full finger on some of the holds. Common for my friends to climb a problem using big reaches and pitches that my hand would not be able to do and I fall back to tiny foot holds to crimp and make my own path to the top.

Lets face it so few routes at this level get climbed you can't really grade them outside a personal how hard is it to me because you can't really average out a grade from 10 people or less.

Small hands, huh? Congrats on the wall of text you generate then, I thought it was just a bunch of drivel I largely ignore but it turns out it is probably a Herculean effort for you to churn out as well. Bravo!

Alan Zhan · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 65
ViperScale . wrote:

As a guy with tiny hands a womens small hands would would make this route alot easier. I don't climb 5.14 but looking at alot of the video it looks like a jug haul alot of the way up for my hands. Alot of my friends probably would be lucky to get 1 full finger on some of the holds. Common for my friends to climb a problem using big reaches and pitches that my hand would not be able to do and I fall back to tiny foot holds to crimp and make my own path to the top.

Lets face it so few routes at this level get climbed you can't really grade them outside a personal how hard is it to me because you can't really average out a grade from 10 people or less.

4/10


Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20
ViperScale . wrote:

As a guy with tiny hands 

Donald, is that you?! Your posts make so much more sense now...

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 250
reboot wrote:

Depending on where you are. But seriously, this really isn't the thread for it: Beth's climbing achievement stands by itself, no need to drag her private affairs into this. You & Ted should both delete your posts (Ted for replying to a trolling post). 

Tommy wrote about it in his book and Beth wrote about it in a published article. It has nothing to do with either person's climbing achievements but it isn't gossip or a secret. No need to tread lightly about it. 

Nut Tool · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

My original questions were answered in the first couple replies by very helpful members, those posts were clear and concise. Bravo to that. For a second there I had faith and pride in this particular corner of the internet...

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,186
Nut Tool wrote: My original questions were answered in the first couple replies by very helpful members, those posts were clear and concise. Bravo to that. For a second there I had faith and pride in this particular corner of the internet...

Similarly, I had great admiration for your first post, what with the pre clap back on the whole it doesn’t count cuz lady fingers and I’m a burly myan argument (genius!). But now, this side mouth passive aggression of yours has let me down into my usual hopeless fugue state. Thanks a lot!

DRusso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 745
ViperScale . wrote:

As a guy with tiny hands a womens small hands would would make this route alot easier. I don't climb 5.14 but looking at alot of the video it looks like a jug haul alot of the way up for my hands. Alot of my friends probably would be lucky to get 1 full finger on some of the holds. Common for my friends to climb a problem using big reaches and pitches that my hand would not be able to do and I fall back to tiny foot holds to crimp and make my own path to the top.

Lets face it so few routes at this level get climbed you can't really grade them outside a personal how hard is it to me because you can't really average out a grade from 10 people or less.

"I don't climb 5.14 but let me tell you how i would climb this unrepeated 5.14c". Got it, makes sense. Thanks for the reply.

Tim Opsahl · · SF, CA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
ViperScale . wrote:

As a guy with tiny hands a womens small hands would would make this route alot easier. I don't climb 5.14 but looking at alot of the video it looks like a jug haul alot of the way up for my hands. Alot of my friends probably would be lucky to get 1 full finger on some of the holds. Common for my friends to climb a problem using big reaches and pitches that my hand would not be able to do and I fall back to tiny foot holds to crimp and make my own path to the top.

Lets face it so few routes at this level get climbed you can't really grade them outside a personal how hard is it to me because you can't really average out a grade from 10 people or less.

Yeah my shoes are so small that the polished non-existent feet actually seem like ledges. It looks kind of heady because every time I (would) make a move I'm scared I'll break my ankle on those ledges if I were to take a whipper off the jugs.

Not to mention the fact that she's wasting all this effort pinching and laybacking off the crack flare and not even getting her whole hand jams in [i could for sure with my baby jug hands]. For my hands, the crux I think would be how I should sling my gear for the wide sections (ie. all of it until the top out). Gear over the shoulder? Left side in when stacking my fists or right? 

If this climb wasn't so season dependent when I'm working on my real projects I'd be stoked to get my first 14 (tho looks maybe 12 for me).

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 611
Big B wrote:

He said he’s only TR'd it once. mentioned that the crux is pure glass. But that he might give it a go soon

Rad. Has anything that LK has set himself to shut him down? Not that I'm aware of but I guess that wouldn't be in the news. I hope he goes for it.

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,395

The Enormocast with Carlos Traversi had him trying the elder Kauks Magic Line IIRC, not meltdown. Magic Line certainly in the mix for hard Crack as well. Lonnie the only repeat?

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 611

Story I got is that besides Kauk's efforts back in the late 90's when he bolted it, Traversi is the one who has put the most work into it, and that he got maybe close on TR, but never TR'd it clean, and never really moved into the phase of trying to lead or rp it.

Good to remember that Kauk first bolted and worked this line on TR back when he was a badass mf'r in the Valley, shortly after his send of the Magic Line, or maybe even the same season that he sent the ML? If he could do Magic Line, but got shut down by this one...

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-rodden-yosemite-hard-trad

Cron · · Kittery, ME · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 55
Bryan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 351

That's sick, congrats.

Zachary K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 176
Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 611

From Traversi's post:

All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose. The climbing went smoothly including the placement of the final #4 @blackdiamond Stopper which is always a tricky one to get in.
Proud!
Matthias Holladay · · Shiprock, Navajolands · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 6,805
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 210

Whoa!  That one looks intense.  I wonder why it hasn’t gotten as much attention as Meltdown or Recovery Drink.  Also...Pringle climbs trad??

Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 10
Ted Pinson wrote: Whoa!  That one looks intense.  I wonder why it hasn’t gotten as much attention as Meltdown or Recovery Drink.  Also...Pringle climbs trad??

He onsighted Moonlight Buttress, among other things. He just doesn’t get as much publicity for his trad sends.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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