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A quick (fun?) mental exercise ranking your climbing strengths

Original Post
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

hey everybody I was just talking to my buddy about training and we were talking about strengths/weaknesses in our climbing and how to tailor training to address this. I came up with a fun little exercise we did to get a grasp of the issue. Now, this leaves out TECHNIQUE which is a huge part of the process for getting to be a stronger climber. I came up with four components to the physical process of making a move. The exercise is to rank them each individually (1/5 would be an extreme deficit for YOU, 5/5 would be an extreme strength for YOU). This is relative to YOU so it doesn't matter if you're a V5 boulderer you can still rank yourself 5/5 on finger strength if its an extreme strength of yours, relative to yourself.

Copy/Paste Template into reply if you want to do this together, may be fun:
1. Finger Strength
2. Moving to the next hold
3. Latching the Hold
4. Core (holding your body in the correct position during/after the move)

Mine:
1. Finger Strength 5/5
2. Moving to the next hold 3/5
3. Latching the Hold 4/5
4. Core (holding your body in the correct position during/after the move) 2/5

Hope this helps/is enlightening/mildly entertaining for you! :)

Brian M · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 155

Telling other people how to climb on mtproject:
5/5

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Brian M wrote: Telling other people how to climb on mtproject:
5/5

lol nice man

since you're a 5/5 at that can you give me some advice on how to bring up core? :P I've been doing hanging leg raises on roof jugs...feet off then bring feet up to to foothold, then lower, and do reps. Thats what I do at end of session...and other than just bouldering thats it for core. Its a weakness of mine but I don't want to over-do it or commit to some heinous core program that I know I won't keep up for long so the fact that its only 5 minutes at end of sesh helps. If you had another exercise that packs a punch I'm all ears :)
5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

SO TRUE MAN

I assume some of the bouldering that comprises 95% of my training is working core tension though right.

Reboot, you go second and do the exercise and get the thread rollin' ;)

evan fullford · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

If you don't want to commit to a heinous core workout then do 10 minute abs. 10 different workouts for 1 minute each. You can do as many sets of this as you can handle. Enough to get your core stronger than it is now, but maybe not enough to turn core into a strength.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

alright boo you guys suck hehe ;)

Evan, thanks for the advice, but I think doing crunches is not going to give me any gainz on bouldering core tension, why would it being so different as an activity compared to bouldering?....I'd rather stick with a routine like I am doing and try to keep adding reps on the hanging foothold touches, isn't that more specific?

And, answer the quiz man! Come on guys!!! Are you all too cool to do the fun quiz on yourself? ;)

Sam Steffens · · Floyd, VA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 0

1. Finger Strength 4/5
2. Moving to the next hold 3/5
3. Latching the Hold 4/5
4. Core (holding your body in the correct position during/after the move) 5/5

Alright yo, there's the quizz questions.
Core is key, core and technique are crucial to my climbing. I'm a wispy chick 5'10 at about 130lbs. My upper body strength is the weakest  and I'm not much for bouldering unless I can be a sticky spider which is all core.
So heres your 15 min must for core(great for finger and wrist strength too but be careful if you have week finger and wriSt strength when starting this)
Here are my top two but I work the entire core as a workout 2x/week and do these  in between other workouts.
1
Vcurls while hanging by fingers in a pull up and chin up position. Can do on a 2x4 with finger tips or pads and open hand or just with a bar though it's hard to catch the tips on a bar. If you cant do it with an open palm then start with a regular grip. Winshield wiper, round the world   make sure your getting that but up in the air, no slacking on these. When you got that bring your feet all the way up and over the bar as you transition your grip so you are turning the Vcurl into a crunch at the top. Big hand strenght move if you are doing it with fingertips to start. Bring your legs down slow, don't skip the core on your way back down. Start with 5-7 reps at 8 sets with your planks.
2
Then move to planks with your feet in the gymnastic rings. Do ski movement and side leg outs. Then drop your feet down to floor and do single leg lifts in a v pattern horizonal to the ground. If you can do that easily enough do toe tip touch left and right and then do all of it on your fingertips working your way to just your middle finger, pointer finger and thumb. (Tips not pads) you can also begin to invert this one to the point of doing them in a near handstand position (not  that I can do that yet)
If that's a cake walk at 8 reps at 10 sets look you might be lying to yourself about your core strength capabilities ;)
If your on it, it should be about 15 min, but go slower before you have proper technique.
David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423

1. Finger Strength 3/5
2. Moving to the next hold 1/5
3. Latching the Hold 2/5
4. Core (holding your body in the correct position during/after the move) 3/5
5. Footwork (OP must be a boulderer because they left this out of the original question) 3/5
6. Keeping it together with my last piece at my feet 0/5

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 423
Sam Miller wrote: I am extremely weak, breaking into 5.12s and can barely do one pull up

Case in point.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

alright the data points are ROLLING IN!!!! WAHOOOO!!!! I also love the morphing quiz we got going on hahaha :D

Sam, thanks for the core training ideas...I think I'm just going to run out the fall with where I'm at training wise and try to redpoint some projects I have locally that *may* be attainable (then my son will be born this fall yahoooooooo!) then I have off this winter so I am going to try to seriously revamp my training for a great 2019 season. I'm not getting any younger and I want to hit V10 before I'm 40!!! :D

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Aren’t 1-3 basically the same?  If we’re speaking purely physical attributes, I’d suggest something more like this:

1. Finger strength (3/5)
2. Power (4/5)
3. Power endurance (1/5...def my weakness)
4. Aerobic endurance (2/5)
5. All day endurance/stamina (5/5).

Kind of a weird mix due to mostly trad climbing and bouldering in the gym nowadays.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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