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Strategy for following the pendulum pitch on Vertigo


Original Post
Bob Johnson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 121

I plan on climbing Vertigo with double ropes. What is the best way to follow the pendulum pitch on Vertigo? Can the follower just unclip from the pendulum point and tension traverse across? Or is it better for the follower to do a lower out?

If it's the latter, how would that work exactly? Would the following plan be ok?
1. Follower cilps in directly to the pendulum point, cleans whatever gear needed
2. Rope 1 remains tight on follower. Follower pulls slack with rope 2 and threads it through the fixed gear at the pendulum point. Follower then does a lower out with rope 2

Are there any nuances I'm missing?

rocknice2 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,068

Leader clips only the left rope up to the pendulum bolt. Swings across then clips only the right rope in the corner, all the way to the anchor.

Second climbs to the pendulum bolt, unclips and easily swings across in the left rope. Leader half in the slack on the right rope once across. Climb on as usual.

Bob Johnson · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 121
rocknice2 wrote: Leader clips only the left rope up to the pendulum bolt. Swings across then clips only the right rope in the corner, all the way to the anchor.

Second climbs to the pendulum bolt, unclips and easily swings across in the left rope. Leader half in the slack on the right rope once across. Climb on as usual.

Ok, so the swing isn't that violent if the second just unclips?

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Nope because the left rope goes from the pendulum point straight to the anchor. The swing is pretty mellow.

Worst part of that route for me was the half Moon ow. My chest is too big to fit and I couldn't even reach the gear!!

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

you can also do it with one rope and the swing isn't bad. Just run it out a little.

acrophobe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

Rocknice2 is correct on the double rope technique for the pendulum.  Since the route slants back left, the pendulum is trivial for the second.

The Half Moon crack is the more serious issue.  Be advised the a #6 C4 will just span the crack - but will not cam one iota.  It was quite a runout for me the first time.  Had a Big Bro when I went back.  A Valley Giant or Merlin would be better.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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