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Best finger cracks in the Wasatch?


Original Post
Sarah E · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 30

Hey guys, I’m looking for the best finger cracks in the Wasatch, grades 5.8 - 5.10. Thanks!

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 370

Coffin Crack

Tyler N · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 155

Coffin, Sasquatch, Green Adjective, Plumb Line, Boomerang, Crack in the Woods

C Archibolt · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 871
Tyler N wrote: Coffin, Sasquatch, Green Adjective, Plumb Line, Boomerang, Crack in the Woods

This is actually all of the Wasatch finger cracks in the 5.8-5.10 range. 

Courtney Pace · · Sandy · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 105

You should throw Coyne Crack on your list.  Its a beautiful albeit short finger crack and goes at 11d but felt about as hard as Sasquatch to me.  Others might disagree but I felt like it was a handbag. 

Daniel Winder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 100

Flying Dutchman

C L · · SLC · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 5

Siesta up above Beckeys Wall is a decent finger crack that eventually slabs out. It was a bit dirty last time I did it though. 

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 7,505

A bit south of you, but great temp.s at 10,400 ft. and short approaches.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106806388/monkey-bumps

Then the same anchor can be used as a TR on the 10c trad line just left, aka

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106820876/curious-george

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,283

Call Me Slim
Goodro's

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 766

Coyne Crack, Stump the Stars, Pudgy Gumbies, S Crack.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 167
ddriver wrote: Call Me Slim
Goodro's

Call me slim is excellent.  Social engineering next door also has a fun section of fingers albeit a bit short.  Phenomenal BCC routes at your grade range..  Sin Nombre, high dive, last pitch penta pitch

Cabot Steward · · SALT LAKE CITY · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 2

Sasquatch is the best one, it can be either really easy or really hard depending on if your fingers fit into the crack.  It's a burly 5.9+.

Tom Hore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 190

Unfortunately there is only one good finger crack in that whole butt seam Hell hole. The good thing is it's also one of the best around. Forget the rest and do the best.
 

tenesmus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 2,370
Sacrifice (5.10) at the bottom of Westwind, right by the start of the Thumb Gully has some of the best fingers in the Wasatch. Expecially now that it's clean again.
El Chollo (5.10) has excellent fingers.
Keel Haul, (5.9) high on the East Gate.
Side Kick (5.8)has sections of fingers.
Blue Collar Crack (5.9) and the .9 that finishes left also has sections of fingers that are cool.
3 Amigos (5.9)has great fingers and makes you get on your feet.
The middle of Bongeater has great fingerlocks.
Don't forget to finish the right side of the Coffin for extended fingers.
Boing has great fingers but that isn't the crux part.

BCC is problematic in that many times you'll either have finger locks to place a piece of gear OR you're holding onto a jug while you place a finger-sized piece. That doesn't often equate to finger crack climbing. HOWEVER, Sin Nombre might be the best in the canyon for doing both at the same time, if that makes any sense.
I also like climbs like Hibatchi Time and Salmonella because finding the finger locks are what keep them at 5.9. You could pretty much say the same thing for Weinie Roast and The Raw and the Cooked.
Jeremy Polk · · Sandy, UT · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5
C Archibolt wrote:

This is actually all of the Wasatch finger cracks in the 5.8-5.10 range. 

False

Dylan Pike · · Sandy, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35

Ginseng has a fun section of perfect locks.

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 390

Nitro

bsmoot · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 2,178

I'm surprised that Sticky Fingers (10d) hasn't been mentioned...great route.

bus driver · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 1,110

There’s some good spots for fingers on Stiffler’s Mom . . .

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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