Belay Devices

PatMas wrote:

This is okay until you rap past a belay station, then try ascending a rope. It will lock up every time you take slack. Best way is a full flip. To where the wire is on the opposite side of the belay carabiner. That way it won’t lock either way.

Briggs Lazalde wrote:

This. Had the guide atc, then the reverso whatever the number(2,4,6??), now the pivot...pivot is worth the extra $5 for the ability to lower your follower if need be and not jolt the system. Simple to lower smoothly by raising the bottom up with almost no effort. Will never go back to guide or reverso.

Going for the pivot as well....so so smooth in guide mode. Never going back to the bd guide again. 

Mad Rock Lifeguard for lead belay, DMM Pivot for guide mode and rappelling

Both are stainless steel where they contact the rope so it stays cleaner for that much longer...

Mammut Bionic Alpine Belay ATC

Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw VPE5 Locking Biner

Jim Titt wrote: GriGri 1 and ATC XP

Make that the GriGri+

I have a DMM Pivot for the multi-pitch stuff, trad and sport and a Wild Country Revo for the single pitch sport..

Josh Lowy wrote: MegaJul.  Assisted brake like the grigri but feeds easier, lighter on the wall, and has 2 slots for rappelling.  Rappelling on the megajul is not the smoothest though.

You’re puttig that very kindly. It.... sucks to rappel on. Everything is awesome about it though 

Khoi wrote: The tradeoff (with the Omega Pacific SBGII) is that if you are belaying a hangdogger you probably won't get as much locking off power compared to other tube style belay devices since the belay device isn't pushed up against the belay biner.

Flipping the SBG to the high friction grooves will give you all the locking power you need for any hangdogging sporto 

kevin deweese wrote:

Flipping the SBG to the high friction grooves will give you all the locking power you need for any hangdogging sporto 

Clearly your idea of locking off is different to ours.

I use the Alpine up.

Jim Titt wrote:

Clearly your idea of locking off is different to ours.

Clearly you're not interested in applying the context of the quoted post. 

EASY fellers!

Hey Kev, how's ur projie coming along?

:D

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: EASY fellers!

Hey Kev, how's ur projie coming along?

:D

We bailed for the weekend after heart palpitations and dry heaving from the smoke. Interestingly enough while rapping our fixed lines with my SBG, I marveled at its ability to hold me even without my hand on the brake strand, but I wouldn't call that locking off, more like fat ropes just want a bit more loving from the belay device before letting their brief but intimate encounter go. 

Ah, sorry to hear it.

Yea, it was like Mordor up there on sat.

Endeavor to Persevere.

---Lone Watie The Outlaw Josey Wales