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Belay Devices


Original Post
Connor Erickson · · Brandon, SD · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

What are your guys’ favorite belay devices and why?

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,610

Hip belay. You're never without your 'device'.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 205

The grigri because its so much more than just a belay device. 

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,610
that guy named seb wrote: The grigri because its so much more than just a belay device. 

Bottle opener? Bear repellent? 

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 176

Grigri for most belays.  Because it adds  another layer of safety when used properly.
BD Guide ATC, when using someone else's old fuzzy rope that locks the grigri up at inopportune times, or when belaying two people up when multi-pitching.
Munter hitch on a locking biner when unforeseen events occur and the previous 2 are not available.

Josh Lowy · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 565

MegaJul.  Assisted brake like the grigri but feeds easier, lighter on the wall, and has 2 slots for rappelling.  Rappelling on the megajul is not the smoothest though.

Brian Malone · · Olney, MD · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 3,620

I like the new ATC-Pilot. It auto-locks similar to a mega jul.. but it does have its shortcomings, it can only handle one rope, it can not be used for rappel. no top belaying, etc..
I end up carrying a ATC-Guide anyway, but I am one of those that carry a backup anyway, so it works for me. I also don't like the idea of belay devices being over $50..  The money you save can be spent elsewhere. Also consider if the device can help in self rescue.. (and weight...)

Brian Malone · · Olney, MD · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 3,620

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,639

Trango Vergo.  You get a new one every six months whether you need to or not.

Ryan Swanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

Trublue. 

BryanE · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 346

Assisted - Gri Gri 2
Tube - Pivot - super easy to lower in guide mode and don't have to mess around with redirects

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Sport: Edelrid Jul 2 or any make/model tube device depending on a route (more dangerous routes require tube style device to be able to feed a decent amount of rope thru the device)
Trad: Edelrid Mega Jul or Edelrid Micro Jul (obviously Micro is for doubles/twins), or any make/model tube device
Alpine: Edelrid Micro Jul
Solo: Rock Exotica Soloist

Ultimately any make/model tube style "guide" device is the most versatile choice now days. BD ATC Guide, Petzl Reverso, DMM Pivot, CAMP Piu 2, CT BE Up, Mammut Wall Alpine, etc, etc, etc.

Rue Kennington · · Essex, MA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Sticht plate. Its simplicity, elegance, symmetry and immediate intuitiveness to even non-climbers I've showed it to while explaining climbing has completely won me over. I've never seen another belay device other than a good braced set of hips that can match its attractiveness. 

Lee Payne · · Austin, TX · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 91
Josh Lowy wrote: MegaJul.  Assisted brake like the grigri but feeds easier, lighter on the wall, and has 2 slots for rappelling.  Rappelling on the megajul is not the smoothest though.

Have you tried flipping it around so it doesn't lock up (i.e. the keeper loop facing away from you)? I use it that way with the standard friction hitch backup and it rapps just like an ATC.

Brian Malone · · Olney, MD · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 3,620
Rue Kennington wrote: Sticht plate. Its simplicity, elegance, symmetry and immediate intuitiveness to even non-climbers I've showed it to while explaining climbing has completely won me over. I've never seen another belay device other than a good braced set of hips that can match its attractiveness. 

The late models had a springy thing attached to keep it from locking down on your carabiners (two opposed in those days). It wasn't quite as element but did the trick. canberraspeleos.org.au/imag…

Still had to carry a figure eight to rappel.  Before sticht plates we used the small loop of the figure eight with a prusik tied to the big loop as a leash.  Before that body belay.. Anyone remember Whillans sit harnesses (made by Troll)?

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 286

I still like Omega Pacifics SBGII.  Thing can handle fat gym ropes and also has great lock off even in small diameter ropes.  Lots of friction options when on rappel with heavy loads or if canyoneering.

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240
that guy named seb wrote: The grigri because its so much more than just a belay device. 

Great for top rope (be in multi pitch or single pitch) but I will not lead belay with someone on one unless I know they will be hanging alot on a project. They do make it easier to top rope belay and drink beer at the same time though.

PatMas · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Lee Payne wrote:

Have you tried flipping it around so it doesn't lock up (i.e. the keeper loop facing away from you)? I use it that way with the standard friction hitch backup and it rapps just like an ATC.

This is okay until you rap past a belay station, then try ascending a rope. It will lock up every time you take slack. Best way is a full flip. To where the wire is on the opposite side of the belay carabiner. That way it won’t lock either way.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
Connor Erickson wrote: What are your guys’ favorite belay devices and why?

Grigri2

Easily the most versatile device on the market, lightweight for what it is, and can catch a high factor fall on a skinny line. There are alot of imitators out there, but none truly match the grigri2 in what it can do across the spectrum. Use of doubles is basically it's only real limitation.

It's the only device I lead belay with, and I've even started rappelling with it on multipitch lately with my partner using the guide tube we use for bringing up the second.
Steve Shen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
PatMas wrote:

This is okay until you rap past a belay station, then try ascending a rope. It will lock up every time you take slack. Best way is a full flip. To where the wire is on the opposite side of the belay carabiner. That way it won’t lock either way.

Interesting, I've never seen or heard of rapping like that with the megajul. With the full flip, do you do it with the thumb-rest on top or below? Am I gunna die if I try it?

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
Pete Spri wrote: I still like Omega Pacifics SBGII.  Thing can handle fat gym ropes and also has great lock off even in small diameter ropes.  Lots of friction options when on rappel with heavy loads or if canyoneering.

One of the GREAT things about the Omega Pacific SBGII is that it is the only tube-style belay device on the market that does not jam!

The unlike other tube style belay devices the Omega Pacific SBGII stays a fixed distance from the belay biner.  Therefore is cannot jam since it cannot be pushed up against the belay biner.  The tradeoff is that if you are belaying a hangdogger you probably won't get as much locking off power compared to other tube style belay devices since the belay device isn't pushed up against the belay biner.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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