Mountain Project Logo

3 season boot

Original Post
RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

I have the Scarpa Mont Blanc Pro GTX for ice and colder temps. What would you consider for a 3 season mountaineering boot for glacier travel, easy alpine rock. I fit scarpa/la sportiva pretty good. Not sure about other brands because can't try them out locally.

John Vanek · · Gardnerville, NV · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

My Mt Blanc Pros are the most comfortable boot I’ve ever owned. I use them until it’s cold enough that I switch to my Phantom Techs. I’ve never considered them too warm for summer alpine. The Scarpa Charmoz is the next step down from the MBPs.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 528

Mont Blancs are definitely not a 3-season boot.  I have a pair of Scarpa Charmoz and have been pretty happy with them, much lighter (~200g per foot!) than a 4-season boot like the Mont Blanc, walks better than a full shank ice boot, rock climbs better, etc.  The La Sportiva Trango series is similar, I had a pair of the S Evos and they were good boots but didn't quite fit my feet.

NathanC · · Ogden, UT · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 15

I just tried on a pair of Scarpa Zodiac Techs today for similar reasons.  Found them to be very light & comfy, but definitely not as stiff as my phantoms.  If the terrain you want them for dictates a minimal amount of front-pointing, I think they would be a decent compromise.

If you're looking for something small & light to pack in over 20 miles of rock for several pitches of summertime ice & rock (something similar to the Rebel Pro, perhaps?), I'd be interested to know what you dig up!

RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

Ended up purchasing the Charmoz.  Didn't see the Zodiac.  Will Zodiacs last longer because they are leather?

Side question then with the Charmoz.  My Petzl Lynx will fit these?  More concerned with it being not as stiff as the Mont Blanc Pro GTX.
tx for response so far.

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 528

Zodiac and Charmoz are, at least according to the Scarpa descriptions and construction, aimed at slightly different usage.  The Charmoz is a 3-season mountain boot, the Zodiac is more like a high top approach shoe (although maybe more burly, as it is quite a bit heavier than something like a TX4 mid?).  How much difference there is in practical terms, I don't know, I have only used the Charmoz, and it probably depends a lot on personal preference and intended use.

As long as you have the plastic semi-auto adapter for your Lynx, they will fit fine on the Charmoz.  Note that, like many 3-season boots, the Charmoz isn't a fully rigid sole, so it will not ice climb as well as a normal ice boot.  Depending on your objective this might be totally fine, or a catastrophe...

RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0
Kyle Tarry wrote: Zodiac and Charmoz are, at least according to the Scarpa descriptions and construction, aimed at slightly different usage.  The Charmoz is a 3-season mountain boot, the Zodiac is more like a high top approach shoe (although maybe more burly, as it is quite a bit heavier than something like a TX4 mid?).  How much difference there is in practical terms, I don't know, I have only used the Charmoz, and it probably depends a lot on personal preference and intended use.

As long as you have the plastic semi-auto adapter for your Lynx, they will fit fine on the Charmoz.  Note that, like many 3-season boots, the Charmoz isn't a fully rigid sole, so it will not ice climb as well as a normal ice boot.  Depending on your objective this might be totally fine, or a catastrophe...

Kyle, probably just easy alpine rock with snow/glacier travel for approach, nothing to technical when it comes to ice.....for now :)

Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 528

The Charmoz will be plenty for that.  A lot of people approach objectives like that in regular approach shoes, like the 5.10 Guide Tennie or Sportiva TX.

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

I picked up the La Sportiva Trango GTX as an all around mountaineering/alpine boot after destroying my weak ankles going "light and fast" in guide tennies in the Winds and Tetons.  I haven't gotten them on a good climb yet, but wearing them around in the snow and cold, and on a few hot wet days while I was breaking them in, I think they'll be a great three season boot.  I'll let you know after I go beat them around the Tetons a bit this summer.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "3 season boot"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started