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Munter top roping on static rope??


Original Post
Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 105

So this dude I met doesn't have a belay device yet, but he got one steel locker and some static line from his uncle who used to climb. He cut up some of the rope to build anchors. Anyway, long story short I ran into him at Auburn quarry TRing some surprisingly challenging choss on this setup. Does anyone else climb on this type of setup?? Seemed to work pretty well. The lack of harnesses was a little sketchy though...

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5

Weird.  I wouldn't do it based off of first glance.  You are still taking minor falls on top rope if your belayer isn't keeping you tight.  Might as well just do a trax line.

Ryan Swanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

That doesn't look too chossy

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

The static line actually makes this setup less dangerous than with regular climbing rope.

Other than it just being really hard to haul rope, it's probably fine. I'd probably do a hip belay on the ground to give myself a bit more control on the rope...

Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 105
Ryan Swanson wrote: That doesn't look too chossy

*the sketch does not appropriately represent the quality of the rock.

jg fox · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Peter J wrote:

*the sketch does not appropriately represent the quality of the rock.

Auburn quarry is downright dirty and chossy at some parts.  It is still fun climbing regardless.

Ryan Swanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
Peter J wrote:

*the sketch does not appropriately represent the quality of the rock.

How are we, the keyboard warriors of MP, supposed to know the rock quality is poor if you can't draw a simple topo with chalked holds, bolted cracks, and ledges by the belay for a boombox?

Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 105
Ryan Swanson wrote:

How are we, the keyboard warriors of MP, supposed to know the rock quality is poor if you can't draw a simple topo with chalked holds, bolted cracks, and ledges by the belay for a boombox?

The rock quality is largely irrelevant hear, unless we want to get into discussing the risks of belaying in chossville without an autolocking belay device... but those predisposed to promoting using an autolocking belay device seem to dogmatically cling to their opinion in any situation--regardless of relevant hazards, or the lack there of.

Only, Locals · · #iGREWhereUflewHERE · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,160

I agree, the drawing gives the impression that the rock quality is pretty good.

I want to know more about the rock quality before I can make a comment.

Peter J · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 105
Only, Locals wrote: I agree, the drawing gives the impression that the rock quality is pretty good.

I want to know more about the rock quality before I can make a comment.

On a scale from Yosemite to Woodson, it's ALMOST as bad as Woodson.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Its never a sound idea to have the primary carabiner for the belay out of sight of the belayer, especially with a Munter hitch.

Locking, or otherwise if the gate cannot be tended properly then it can open with tragic results.

curt86iroc · · Golden, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 52

not my favorite...

Only, Locals · · #iGREWhereUflewHERE · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,160
Peter J wrote:

On a scale from Yosemite to Woodson, it's ALMOST as bad as Woodson.

FUGGING LOL YEW WUDN'T LAST THREE SECONDS ON THE ROCK DOWN THIS WAY BRAJ!!11!!  THE OW WOULD CHEW YEW UP AND SPIT YER BONES OUT IN THE MANZANITA NEVAR TO BE SEEN AGAIN11!!!!!

Philip Magistro · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0
jg fox wrote: Weird.  I wouldn't do it based off of first glance.  You are still taking minor falls on top rope if your belayer isn't keeping you tight.  Might as well just do a trax line.

The static line isn't an issue in this setup: even if you take a big TR whipper,the fall factor in a top-rope situation is so low that the forces you would experience are extremely low, well within the 6kn or so that our bodies can generally handle.

Harumpfster hits the nail on the head: you should be close enough to monitor and access the master point in this situation.
Josh Lipko · · Charlotte · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10

Just because it works doesn't mean it isn't stupid.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,185

It’s a pretty efficient, cheap set up I don’t think I’d ever think of but, like others, I need to know how chossy you think the quarry is before I can render a real internet verdict.

Alex James · · Ballard, WA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 181
Peter J wrote: The lack of harnesses was a little sketchy though...

... what was the rope attached to? A webbing harness? Their belt loop? Other? 

Tyler Newcomb · · Burlington · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 70

No harnesses, static rope, little equipment, shitty terrain.

The 1910s called, they want their climbers back. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Alex James wrote:

... what was the rope attached to? A webbing harness? Their belt loop? Other? 

Could have been what I used on my first TR - a loop of rope tied tightly around the waist with a bowline. After the first day I graduated to a bowline on a coil. 

He could be using a swami belt instead. 
Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,365
Josh Lipko wrote: Just because it works doesn't mean it isn't stupid.

Ditto.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Don’t really see much use for this other than in a party of 2 for a TR session when one climber forgets to bring a harness. Maybe useful in this situation. Would feel ok with the munter out of reach if the master point was a ball lock or tri lock style or locker with the screw lock taped. Maybe safe and useful in that situation?  

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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