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Best gyms w/ cracks


Original Post
Julius Elinson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 20

What gyms in Colorado have an extensive collection of crack climbs? Most that I’ve seen have only 1 or 2.

Only, Locals · · #iGREWhereUflewHERE · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,160

Mesa rim gyms in San Diego have the best cracks in Colorado.

Adam Block · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 228

City Rock in CSprings is in the process of adding several new 50' cracks and maybe even an adjustable training crack wall.

Agjohns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 785

Not in Colorado, but maybe the Colorado gyms will take note.


sara pax · · western mass/traveling · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 216

Indian Creek is the best gym in Colorado for cracks

Only, Locals · · #iGREWhereUflewHERE · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,160
sara pax wrote: Indian Creek is the best gym in Colorado for cracks

/THREAD

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

Earth Treks Golden has four: finger, off-fingers/thin hands (brutal), hand, and fist. Fingers crossed they'll get some Wide Boyz volumes at some point...

Alex R · · Golden · Joined May 2015 · Points: 16

Not extensive, but the Westminster rec center has two cracks and a chimney that are a lot more interesting than the splitters at most gyms. It is also the only indoor wall I know of that allows you to mock lead trad and the crack is actually complex enough to make it good practice placing gear. Added bonuses: $6 day pass, DWS wall.

jt newgard · · Ventura, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 120

I know it's off base geographically....

But Granite Arch in Sacramento has a gazillion cracks.....

And the best part.....no one climbs them!!!

You can see Honnold throwing down at The Arch in the 60 Minutes bit.

Nick Andrasik · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 0
Noah Yetter wrote: Earth Treks Golden has four: finger, off-fingers/thin hands (brutal), hand, and fist. Fingers crossed they'll get some Wide Boyz volumes at some point...

I put in a request on their little request board every week, maybe one day we'll get lucky...

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470
Adam Block wrote: City Rock in CSprings is in the process of adding several new 50' cracks and maybe even an adjustable training crack wall.

That is excellent news, because putting in an off hands, off fingers crack that's absolutely no fun to flail on was not the best original plan. Literally no one climbs that thing.

Adam Block · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 228
Tim Stich wrote:

That is excellent news, because putting in an off hands, off fingers crack that's absolutely no fun to flail on was not the best original plan. Literally no one climbs that thing.

The old one is already gone and the new walls are coming along. they have a wonderful overhung tight #2s set right now on some cool comfy variable volumes.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470
Adam Block wrote:

The old one is already gone and the new walls are coming along. they have a wonderful overhung tight #2s set right now on some cool comfy variable volumes.

Sweet. They need cracks that are perfect hands in sections for both men and women so that they can learn how to jam comfortably. 

Brendan McCann · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0
Tim Stich wrote:

That is excellent news, because putting in an off hands, off fingers crack that's absolutely no fun to flail on was not the best original plan. Literally no one climbs that thing.

Hah, speak for youself- that crack was how I learned to jam!  The learning curve was steep, but I was able to lead it consistently by the time they took it down...R.I.P.

GabeO · · New Haven, CT · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302
Noah Yetter wrote: Earth Treks Golden has four: finger, off-fingers/thin hands (brutal), hand, and fist. Fingers crossed they'll get some Wide Boyz volumes at some point...

They're not as hard as one might like, but they have pretty nasty sharp edges.  Or at least did when I was there, maybe they've been worn down a bit by now.

Evan Crumpecker · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 170
Tim Stich wrote:

That is excellent news, because putting in an off hands, off fingers crack that's absolutely no fun to flail on was not the best original plan. Literally no one climbs that thing.

I climbed that thing :( It was the perfect Supercrack simulator.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470
Evan Crumpecker wrote:

I climbed that thing :( It was the perfect Supercrack simulator.

Well, no one is ever going to climb it again as it has been destroyed. Yeaaaaah! 

Evan Crumpecker · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 170
Tim Stich wrote:

Well, no one is ever going to climb it again as it has been destroyed. Yeaaaaah! 

Ohhhh, you were talking about THAT one. Yeah, no that thing sucked, I thought you meant the first iteration of the new crack volumes they put up a few months ago. 

Kent Pease · · Littleton, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 725

The three cracks at Movement in Denver are pretty good. They mimic real rock with variations in width, pockets and pinches, and rounded edges. Wish they were adjustable though.

The cracks at ET in Golden are pretty bad and have a range of issues: The finger cracks are of similar size and basically redundant, whereas if one was finger-to-hand size it would provide a greater variety to play/train on. Also, the finger cracks have very sharp-angled edges textured with sharp sand which cuts into your shoes requiring resoles within a few sends. The hand crack is OK but would be better with a greater variation in width. The fist-to-OW is too shallow to use OW techniques on so when you get to that size it’s just a thrutch or lieback. I could go on. Bottom line is that the cracks seem to be an afterthought and need some changes to be more useful.

I'd be happy to work with any gyms to develop good cracks.

Kent

David Cummings · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 190

Grand Valley Climbing in Grand Junction has two 45 ft cracks.  One is tight hands to hands and the other is hands to big hands.  Good for practice, plus being 2 hours from Indian creek is a bonus.

El Gato · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 0

^^ Why not go to Indian Creek then? Even better is climb in the monument which is 45 minutes away!! Better than wasting away inside a gym :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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