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Mohling-Kasparov traverse link up

Original Post
Rockon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

Looking to link this traverse from grand lake. Does anyone know what the chessmen would be like in reverse (Apache to Shoshoni)? I looked on MP and Roach’s book doesn’t give any beta bi directionally.


Ryan Marsters · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 986

I have not done Kasparov in that direction, but I guess it can be done at 4th class bypassing right/SE around the harder stuff. Derek Wolfe's Front Range 13ers guide gives a pretty good description of, albeit also going the other direction. Some photos looking both directions here too.

Good luck.

FWIW, I don't think it would be bad to descend Mohling if you choose to start on Kasparov. The most challenging part to pick a line might be coming off Apache, and I'd highly recommend not getting suckered into the obvious easy-but-loose gully on the north side of ridge proper.  Most of the traverse is on left/west side ledges (when looking down it) which would be easy to spot from above. Switches to the right/east side near Lone Eagle. There are several bail points, though ice ax or microspikes would be nice for a couple of them. The rappel headwall can be climbed on the right/east side of the ridge via 5.0 chimney and exposed ledge traverse back left to the rap anchor.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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