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All day Trad climbers what shoes are you wearing? (Not TC Pros)


NorCalNomad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 120
reboot wrote:

there are only degrees of (un)ergonomy (is that even a word?) to any shoes, the less you have to wear them, the better.

FWIW, I've been told Peter Croft wears Scarpa Boostics for everything (crack, face, whatever) these days.

1. Not true. Shoes let your feet do things they could never do on their own, even if you never ever wore shoes and had the much stronger connective tissue and musculature that almost all modern people do not have. But cramming them in shoes that restrict their movement 24/7 isn't healthy for them either. 

2. Yup, straight from his mouth, he loves the Boostic. Has a few pairs that are sized different depending on what he wants to do, picked it up from Josh Wharton. 
jason.cre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 10
Beth Caughran wrote:

Seconding this. I had a rough time with TC Pros. The fit just doesn't work for me. The Aspects are rad, though.

what is the fit on the aspects like?  Do you size down much from street shoes?

Shane Rosanbalm · · Chapel Hill, NC · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 40

La Sportiva Finale is a nice affordable option.

Chris Reyes · · Montclair, NJ · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 40

How are people sizing the aspect? Do they stretch at all?

Hunting for a granite shoe and haven't loved anything I've tried on barring the katana laces, but I can't get a comfy fit in them without feeling sloppy. Small toes are bent in the aspect, but if they stretch or widen slightly they might be golden for me. Years of sizing shoes aggressively have really warped my impression of things fitting comfortably. Finding actual comfy shoes has been a nightmare.

Alan Coon · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150
Chris Reyes wrote: How are people sizing the aspect? Do they stretch at all?

Hunting for a granite shoe and haven't loved anything I've tried on barring the katana laces, but I can't get a comfy fit in them without feeling sloppy. Small toes are bent in the aspect, but if they stretch or widen slightly they might be golden for me. Years of sizing shoes aggressively have really warped my impression of things fitting comfortably. Finding actual comfy shoes has been a nightmare.

You can always throw a bag of water in them and put that in the freezer worst case. I’ve used that trick before in a pinch 

sgt.sausage · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

A really old (on their 7th resole) pair of 5.10 Huecos. I think they're ... at least 7 or 8 years old these days. 

For my foot, they are the perfect "all-day" shoe. I like them so much, when I found out they were gonna get discontinued a few years back, I bought two extra pair. Still in box, untouched. Based on the number of resoles I've gotten out of the original pair, I'm pretty sure I have a lifetime of climbing shoe right there. (Tha's not saying much when you're 50). 

Ira O · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 61
Chris Reyes wrote: How are people sizing the aspect? Do they stretch at all?

Hunting for a granite shoe and haven't loved anything I've tried on barring the katana laces, but I can't get a comfy fit in them without feeling sloppy. Small toes are bent in the aspect, but if they stretch or widen slightly they might be golden for me. Years of sizing shoes aggressively have really warped my impression of things fitting comfortably. Finding actual comfy shoes has been a nightmare.

I sized Same as regular shoes. At first the small toes got pretty squished but the shoe softened up and it got better... im not sure if it really stretched or just sort of molded to my foot. Now they are comfy. Sounds like a similar issue for you, I bet after a couple days out they will feel better. 

adeadhead · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 30

Miuras!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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