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All day Trad climbers what shoes are you wearing? (Not TC Pros)


Original Post
Jeff Erwin · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 35

I’m new to climbing so I’ve only had a few pairs of shoes and looking to find what I’m missing out on. I’m comfortable running out 5.9 they call me a seamstress at 5.10 and I’m funny to watch plugging gear anywhere near 5.11 but I have the next 5 months dedicated to climb and hope people start laughing at me in new ways.

My first pair of shoes were Mythos and they happily get me by during resoles. My second was Scarpa Techno X I wore a hole through them and hated the fit. I love my Butora Altura’s but I need a resole. What should I try next for all day trad climbing? Or a trad shoe in general?
Please don’t even bother saying TC pros - I’m a big foot they dont make them in my size. 

Nick Drake · · Newcastle, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 491

Katana lace
Kataki
Vapor lace

Haven’t found a truly flat shoe I like. Tc pro, techno, pinks and maestro (worst)

Taylor Lapeyre · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 179

BD Aspect. Only shoe that I’ve ever liked more than TC Pros for all day trad.

NorCalNomad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 120

5.10 Pinks. Good at edging, good at smearing once broken in. Believe them make them in a 15...

Beth Caughran · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0
Taylor Lapeyre wrote: BD Aspect. Only shoe that I’ve ever liked more than TC Pros for all day trad.

Seconding this. I had a rough time with TC Pros. The fit just doesn't work for me. The Aspects are rad, though.

Scott . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 50

Five-Ten Mocs are great for cracks or Tenaya Ra for all around trad 

· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Anasazi

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

5.10 Anasazi VCS or 5.10 Quantum Lace.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 877
Jeff Erwin wrote: I’m new to climbing 



Nobody can tell you what shoe will work for you.  You gotta try them on.
Greg Shea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 10

Pinks

Tavish Hansen · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 140

I'm a huge fan of the anasazi vcs.  They are basically as good as pinks for smearing and techy micro smears and edging but take a fraction of the time to put on and take off.  They are best for edging when they are fresh out of the box and best for smearing after they have broken in a bit, so if you are aiming for a performance 5.11 and up shor that is a bit of a downside.  Not everyone seems to like them as much as TC pros but I have aways just prefered C4 over vibram and swear by the fit and construction of the anasazi line.

ThomasR · · marina del rey, ca · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

will second the anasazi vcs, they're great all-arounders. the buckles can be annoying in certain sized cracks and I personally prefer a stiffer shoe for all day trad otherwise my feet get tired on longer routes.

i do have a pair of tc pros sized for all day trad, but good and cheaper alternative are the la sportiva finales. not the best sensitivity out of the box but plenty comfortable and still perform well after breaking in. decent at edging, crack and slab. 

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, Spain · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Scarpa Techno X and Butora Altura (all day, multi-pitch, trad), with very thin socks. What happens to fit your particular foot is probably most important.

Ira O · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 61

3rd for BD Aspects. TC pros hurt my schilles heel. I want to like the pinks but 5.10 has too much space in the heel. The aspects are comfy (after a couple days out) they smear, edge, and climb cracks well, and they are quite a bit cheaper than a lot of shoes out there.   

Pjm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5

Jeff, I've had a lot of shoes and for an all-day, semi-technical but comfortable shoe I'd recommend the Tarantulace by La Sportiva. I buy it a half size smaller than my shoe size and can wear them for hours. They do a great job for technical climbing (if needed) up into the 5.10 range. They are also my go-to shoe for gym climbing for the same reason. Good luck!

frog pirate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Katana Lace - have a padded tongue and i've had lots of success jamming in them

bearded sam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 145

On my TC pro’s I had the  achilles issues as well. A razor blade to the slingshot rand released the pressure and they are awesome now. 

Jeff Erwin · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 35
Greg D wrote:

New to climbing and have had at least 3 different shoes, and some resoles?  Something seems off.  

A 2 year old is still an infant... I just want to see how much over lap I can find in this thread obviously I’m trying different shoes to see what is best for me. 
Kyle Elliott · · Everett, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 775

I'm on my second pair of Butora Altura. they have replaced my TCs on most climbs, particularly on slabby rock. 

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

The people that have responded with the Pinks or Katana must have feet made of steel, or haven't actually spent a whole day in them. I own both and would be crying by the third pitch.

La Sportiva Mythos in a sane size, or just about anything with a flat last that fits snug but not tight will do. I like the Boreal Ace/Ballet Gold, but I am pretty old school when it comes to that. I don't climb super hard anymore, but still like to get to the top of something.

Alicia Sokolowski · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,095

5.10 Huecos.  I have worn then for over 10 hours without pain.  They are less aggressive than any shoe named in this whole thread, except maybe Mythos.  They have some padding inside and on the tongue.  Good luck finding them.  If you do, let me know so I can buy everything in my size!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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