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Is devil lake worth a 3 hour drive??


Original Post
Michael Mueller · · Wayzata, MN · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Mainly looking to boulder but don’t want to waste the time if it’s poor quality climbing. 

Curly kN · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 20

Yes. The best rock and highest concentration of boulder problems you will find in the Midwest.

Danny Stirton · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 140

Absolutely, Devil's Lake has many really proud classics and the setting is incredible. Plus it's the midwest, a three hour drive is nothing. I would recommend getting a guidebook though, the boulders can be hard to find.

Michael Mueller · · Wayzata, MN · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Thankfully I have the MN/WI guidebook which has devils in there. Would one pad and spotters suffice or should I bring more?

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,464

I was sure that this was a troll. A whole lot of.people drive 3+hours to climb. Go for the history if nothing else!  
It is the literal birth place of the sandbag, 1st called   "bold leads" these were really more like free solo done with a rope,
 protect the moves toward the crux then run it to that spot up there where you may not trust the gear. . . .
Pete Cleavland, JGill in the -  50s, RGold too, You have to get on. . . well go see what up, most like it for what you want, & Top Roping.

Andrew Southworth · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55
Michael Mueller wrote:Would one pad and spotters suffice or should I bring more?

Definitely worth the drive. If you have access to more pads I'd bring them. 

Andy Summers · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 50

If you want to get on stuff in the talus you'll almost always want 3+ pads. On the other hand, there are plenty of classics you can do with one pad--Big Bud and Slope of Dadaism immediately come to mind.

And yeah, Devil's Lake is worth a 3 hour drive. People from Chicago do it every weekend. The rock quality is almost universally great, but Devil's Lake is almost a style of its own.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

I've made the drive from the TC to DL dozens of times. I don't do it anymore, but it is worth it for sure if you've never been there. If you are able, climb during the week. Devil's Lake is close to several major metropolitan areas and get hella crowded on weekends. East Bluffs is a zoo during the summer. I will say that if you go, bring a rope, there are a ton of classic climbs that have enjoyable movement and great views.

Tomily ma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 305

I’d guess this is more of an attitude question.
Do you like new places? Exploring? Adventure? Is anything worth the drive? Are you depressed and don’t feel motivated? 

Alan Coon · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

I know this thread is dead but... I make drives from Colorado to devils lake and I have eldo, lumpy, boulder canyon, clear creek, st vrain, rmnp all within a hr drive. Devils lake rules 

Dan DeVoll · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

Absolutely buddy!!!! Quartzite is amazing to climb on. Have a blast!

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,435
Alan Coon wrote: I know this thread is dead but... I make drives from Colorado to devils lake and I have eldo, lumpy, boulder canyon, clear creek, st vrain, rmnp all within a hr drive. Devils lake rules 

Goes to show ya how sweet ColoRADo climbing is.

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,595
Tradiban wrote:

Goes to show ya how sweet ColoRADo climbing is.

It's just harder to set up top ropes in Colorado.

Alan Coon · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Hahaha that vampires are out 

randy baum · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 970

best rock?  bro!  say it ain't say.  there is some tasty sandstone and granite in these northwoods.  now, DL does have the best baraboo quartzite.  then again, it's the only spot with baraboo quartzite!

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
Alan Coon wrote: I know this thread is dead but... I make drives from Colorado to devils lake and I have eldo, lumpy, boulder canyon, clear creek, st vrain, rmnp all within a hr drive. Devils lake rules 

This is so wrong on so many levels.  Unless you are meeting some love of your life there, DL DOESN'T compare to anything in Colorado. I drive 14 hours to get to Estes so I don't have to climb at Devil's Lake....It just isn't that great.

Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 3,305

Hey Buck Rio.  I disagree somewhat with your take.  While I would certainly agree that CO is the sacred land of all rock climbers dreams (certainly including my own... Ha!).....

Devil's Lake IS GREAT INDEED!  The history (geologic and cultural and climbing) is very interesting all on it's own in my book.... I have been climbing rocks outside since I was 13 years old and have

all these years continuously and gladly come back to DLSTP to climb, hike, bird watch, swim, bike, hang out with good friends....I am 56 years old now.  I live here so its all obvious I guess.

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0
Burton Lindquist wrote: Hey Buck Rio.  I disagree somewhat with your take.  While I would certainly agree that CO is the sacred land of all rock climbers dreams (certainly including my own... Ha!).....

Devil's Lake IS GREAT INDEED!  The history (geologic and cultural and climbing) is very interesting all on it's own in my book.... I have been climbing rocks outside since I was 13 years old and have

all these years continuously and gladly come back to DLSTP to climb, hike, bird watch, swim, bike, hang out with good friends....I am 56 years old now.  I live here so its all obvious I guess.

I am not saying it isn't worth a few hours drive, but to drive 16 hours one way to climb there is insane when you've world class climbing within an hour of your door!!! We are lucky to have DL in the Midwest, it is a good training ground for better places. 

I do have a slight bias against DL, too many people on the weekends and the always present rain and accompanying mosquitos. Spent MANY rain days in Baraboo.
Burton Lindquist · · Madison, WI · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 3,305

Ya...  It is a bit unconceivable that a climber would claim to drive east out of CO and 16 hours ta boot through some pretty boring endless wheat and corn fields just to climb at Devil's Lake but "Dam"... thanks for the DL kudos Alan Coon.  Alan must be from the Midwest as well with friends and family back here and he is just not telling us....

An old climbing friend of mine who is from South Dakota who was forced to live here in the mid-west for work purposes at one time was always griping about the constant summer humidity, rain, and dampness and always refers to here as "Wetsconsin" and pretty much rightly so..... especially (but not necessarily just this summer but usually ... yes) this summer..... sooo sooo much rain.  The AAC CC has been drenched 2 years in a row now and that's in fall... dam.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,435

Ok, i have to jump in here. There may be more climbing in Colo but it aint all that great. Not impressed with most Colorado climbing.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 2,451

Comparing Devil's Lake to Colorado climbing is like comparing apples to oranges. Devil's Lake is always worth the drive but maybe not a 16hr. drive. But apparently some folks do this? Right on and good on them for making it happen. I drive 18+ hrs. to get pissed on in the N. Cascades so... 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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