Super-Easy Yosemite Cragging Options?
|
Planning a climbing trip with my girlfriend for a week in late October, and considering Yosemite as a potential destination. Looking for options for super-easy cragging for her. Climbing together is great, but a complicating factor is that our climbing levels differ widely. I tend to like to climb on 5.11-5.12 trad routes or 5.12-5.13 sport climbs, while her comfort zone is ~5.7 toproping. This is actually surprisingly manageable with good planning. We often alternate days climbing, or do split days. This works great is a place like Squamish; we can spend the morning TRing 5.7 cracks at the Smoke Bluffs, then in the afternoon head to Pet Wall and I can try a hard project. |
|
Swan Slab, church bowl and manure pile buttress. |
|
I'll add Glacier Point to Manure Pile for easy multipitch cragging. Jam Crack at sunnyside bench and the lower falls amphitheater have couple single pitch easy routes as well as a couple hard single pitches mixed in. Essentially, most northside crags will have few easy options until you hit el cap. |
|
Take her up The Grack. |
|
Bill M wrote: Swan Slab, church bowl and manure pile buttress. That and some stuff on GPA is pretty much it. Basically you're pretty limited in Yosemite if you're climbing below 5.9, and while there are some 5.4s or whatever, the quality of the majority of the easier routes (5.7 and under) is on the low side. |
|
Five and dime. There are a couple 8's with a few harder climbs. Close to the road, easy parking, in the sun and hot in the afternoon so I'd hit it in the morning. |
|
If your ready to break up, take her on Uncle Fanny (5.7) lol. |
|
there are a ton of options, get a comprehensive guidebook (skip supertopo, it wont have enough of the obscure routes at the crags) either the big Reid or the new one by Woot Woot boy Erik Sloan |
|
Totally off-topic, but perhaps checking out Southern Tahoe, Lover's Leap, might be worth a stop. |
|
After 6 is always a good time. I've taken plenty of non climbers up it. |
|
Super slide is "5.9" (very soft, very brief section of 5.9) but the first four pitches are 5.7 and easier climbing, imo. The first four pitches are very mellow. |
|
El cap base has a good range of single-pitch routes: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105841115/base-routes |
|
David Bruneau wrote: El cap base has a good range of single-pitch routes: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105841115/base-routes And arguably one of the more dangerous areas to climb in the Valley. |
|
Marc801 C wrote: I wouldn't argue it... there's more rock above you than anywhere else in the valley and of course, a risk of dropped gear from above. |
|
amarius wrote: Totally off-topic, but perhaps checking out Southern Tahoe, Lover's Leap, might be worth a stop.Fresno Dome is just about 45 mins or so out of the valley and has some good moderates. South Pillar is a really fun and easy 5.7 multi-pitch and there are some other moderates nearby to crag on / |
|
Most routes on Manure Pile are super polished at the start, not that "easy". Glacier Point may be a better location for what you're after. |
|
Idaho Bob wrote: Most routes on Manure Pile are super polished at the start, not that "easy". Glacier Point may be a better location for what you're after. I would say that's only true of the first pitch of After 6. The rest of the pitches are all grippy enough. I prefer the first pitch of CS Concerto as a lead in to After six to avoid the polish. |
|
I wouldn't put off royal arches just yet. See how she does out on the rock before just saying it is to long. Snake dike is a bitch from the like 15 miles of hiking and not alot of good belay ledges if you do it car to car in a day. The climb itself doesn't take that long but add in everything else and it can be tiring. |
|
^sounds like a quick way to break up if her comfort zone is 5.7 toproping. Munginella, the grack, or after six would be good, chill multipitch options. |
|
Sam Miller wrote: ^sounds like a quick way to break up if her comfort zone is 5.7 toproping. Munginella, the grack, or after six would be good, chill multipitch options. Yeah, no intention of going anywhere near Royal Arches. I've climbed it twice and know what the route entails. A good time would not be had by all on that route. Any given pitch, if it were at ground level, would be a fun outing. But the full endurance day of doing the whole route and then descending would be way too much. |
|
Yea, Swan Slab is very newbie friendly. Rostrum summit is pretty exposed so she would have to be prepared for that...I'd start with The Grack and be sure she is ready for some rappels etc. |