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Seth Bleazard
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Jun 26, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 395
I just started climbing outside this summer at a place called Byron’s Boulder. I was working on a v3 but didn’t manage to send. Does anyone have any tips that might help me send?
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Anonymous
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Jun 26, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined unknown
· Points: 0
Don't fall...
Not really anything to say we don't even know what problem or where on it you are falling at.
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Joel Thompson
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Jun 26, 2018
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Perryton, TX
· Joined Jan 2018
· Points: 1,380
"If at first you don't succeed...keep trying" It's hard to give an answer without knowing what's giving you trouble. I believe you mentioned that you are climbing V3 in the gym but in my experience V3 outdoors is always harder than V3 in the gym. My advice is to start with your feet; a different foot sequence or foothold has proven to be the breakthrough on many problems I was struggling to finish.
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Matt Himmelstein
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Jun 26, 2018
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Orange, CA
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 194
Start on underclings and move to a sloped crimp. Then jump for the sloped top and mantle to finish.
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Seth Bleazard
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Jun 26, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 395
Look up Byron’s Backside. I am having trouble getting the sloped top.
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David K
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Jun 26, 2018
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The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 423
Joel Thompson wrote: I believe you mentioned that you are climbing V3 in the gym but in my experience V3 outdoors is always harder than V3 in the gym. I don't see this in the OP's post, but if this is the case, my advice is to start with a V1 outdoors. I've mostly found that V3-5 gym = V1 outdoors.
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Anonymous
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Jun 26, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined unknown
· Points: 0
Not the best picture and I have never climbed it but assuming you are falling with your hands around the end of the yellow line. Post a video of yourself trying to climb it and we may be able to give you some better advice but still having never climbed it just random guessing here.
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Seth Bleazard
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Jun 26, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 395
Sorry I guess I am being a bit vague. I mean how might one reach the outdoor grade of V3. How could I practice in the gym?
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Matt Himmelstein
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Jun 27, 2018
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Orange, CA
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 194
Seth Bleazard wrote: Sorry I guess I am being a bit vague. I mean how might one reach the outdoor grade of V3. How could I practice in the gym? Climb something harder than what you can easily climb, but easier than what you are having problems with. There is a big jump in grades in bouldering, and grades are highly subjective anyway. If you have a problem with certain moves or type of holds, work on that. If you can't stick the sloper, train on slopers, if you have problems with the crimps, focus on those, if you are too short to reach the crux hold... well, there isn't much you can do about that except find more holds. Look everything in climbing is a progression. My guess is that you need to work on your footwork more than anything. New climbers generally have terrible footwork.
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David K
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Jun 27, 2018
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The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
· Joined Jan 2017
· Points: 423
Also, one thing gym climbers usually don't do is top out (because most gyms don't have boulders where you can top out). So I wouldn't be surprised if that's your weak spot.
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Fitz Fitzgerald
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Jun 27, 2018
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Rogers, KY
· Joined Dec 2010
· Points: 20
Once you are sending V5's regularly, come back to this climb and you will crush it!! Lol... all of what the others said and climb outside as much as you can, that is the best solution to getting better outside. Keep climbing indoors as well, this will ensure gains in strength.
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Seth Bleazard
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Jun 27, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2018
· Points: 395
Thanks for the advice guys!
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