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Marilyn Mansion crag on Mt Lemmon

Original Post
Caverdude O'Cicero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 126

Does anyone have a link to the route descriptions for this crag on Mt Lemmon? I spotted 10 routes and would like to know their ratings.
Thanks,
Pat 

Scott T · · Cochise AZ · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

We climbed them twice this week. All are low number and short single pitch with anchors at the top. From 5.4 to maybe 5.7 or less. The bolts are close so you’re always protected. My sons both did their first leads there this week. The far right climb is just a couple moves, they get better as you go left. There is a climb in the middle with ledge, it’s not really a roof but it’s an athletic move to clear it. It’s really a fun spot but there is sun on it afternoon. Maybe the morning is best. 

Caverdude O'Cicero · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 126

Thanks Scott! It sounds like we were climbing the same routes that you mentioned, but the ratings felt a bit stiffer than you stated. We didn't climb the right most route and it looked like a 25ft 5.4ish route. The next one from the right felt 5.6+ and the one just left of that was the athletic roof type move you mentioned. It felt like a 5.8+ to me. We only climbed 3 more routes to the left and they all felt 5.8 to 5.8+. They are well protected but have stiff crux moves that require upper body strength as well as good footwork.  It would be really nice if the persons who invested the time to develop this crag would create a page for it on Mountain Project. It's a fun place to climb up high on the mountain and even in late afternoon, the belayer has shade from the trees and bushes.

Scott T · · Cochise AZ · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

You’re right about the ratings. I’m not savvy to set numbers to it. I just know it was within my skill set which is low number stuff. It does need a page on mountain project. CASA has steel cards attached to the anchors. Maybe Eric with CASA will post it.

Eric Sophiea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 232

Hi Scott and Caverdude! CASA provided those informational signs to a few route developers at their request, but CASA doesn't have any involvement in route development in general or Marilyn's Mansion specifically. It was developed by Doug Cornick, Jim Scott, and Eric Fazio-Rhicard, to my understanding.

CASA doesn't contribute route information to Mountain Project because we want to respect the various desires of route developers in our community. If the developers don't post it on MP, we assume they may have some reason and want to honor whatever that may be.

Eric Fazio-Rhicard did make and distribute a beta sheet for this crag. It's in the style of his guidebook. I suspect it will be easy to track one down. ;)

Cheers,
Eric

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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