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Looking Glass in the summer

Original Post
Sam Wilson · · Fort Mill, SC · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Headed to looking glass rock this weekend and was wondering what areas/routes are most enjoyable in the summer. Hoping to climb at south side, am I crazy for trying to climb there in the summer? or is it bearable?

Would love to know of any nearby alternatives as well. I’m a very new trad leader and my partner can lead up to 5.9 on gear 

Matt Westlake · · Durham, NC · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 587

My partner nearly got heat stroke leading safari jive p1 june a few years ago. The seal was ok but is probably above your pay grade just yet. Not sure how the south side is but the sun can be brutal.

I usually head to Ship rock when it's really cooking. Bouldering at higher elevation is also a decent option. But if you can drag yourself out of bed suoer early that is a good way to avoid the worst of the heat.

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 160

The south side of looking glass is frightfully hot in the summer sun.  Even at 6pm these days, it's still blazing and very uncomfortable.  If you get up before sunrise, hike up in the dark, start climbing at sunrise, you might get 3 hours before the sun hits the face and you are done for the day.   Or, a day like today which is totally overcast, you could possibly climb the south side.  The north end stays shaded but there are very few options at 5.8 and 5.9.  

nbrown · · originally WNC, now Broomfield · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 6,708

You can catch some shade early at the Nose/Sun Wall, or perhaps even the south side, then head over to the north side for shade in the afternoon (if it's not yet raining).  Summer climbing in Pisgah is tough. 

Beau Owen · · Brevard NC · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 15

You can climb Second Coming, Fat dog, left up and right up, and white lightning at the Southside which are really good options in the morning because they don’t take too long to climb. The lower pitches around stage ledge to B-52 stay in the shade most of the day.

5.samadhi · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

morning at the north side:
p1 the womb
p1 safari jive
p1  the seal
p1 invisible airways
p1 creatures of waste
p1 toprope extracrimpy chicken from creatures anchor

crank some V7 bouldering below cliff in afternoon or go swimming if it inevitably rains :)

summer day :)

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10

Summer in the South blows, a big reason why I left. The north side of the Glass is reasonable to early-mid afternoon if it is not a total scorcher, forget about anything else unless you plan to finish by 9AM.
The 'best' summer locale is the N. face of Whitesides, It's at 4k' and the sun won't get there until 3:00. I've been there when it was 75 at noon and 98 down in ATL. It is a bit more committing than the Glass. Area over near Boulder Problem should also be in the shade until well after noon.

Ben F · · Benfield, Kolorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 371

Pretty much agree with Pappy Corbett's post. I think that you can stay busy for a day at the N side of the Glass at the level you climb. I don't recommend the N side of Whitesides unless you go with someone familiar with the area.

Pappy, WTF are you doing living in NY? You should move to a (relatively) free state.

Jim Corbett · · Keene, NY · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 10
Ben F wrote: 

Pappy, WTF are you doing living in NY? You should move to a (relatively) free state.

Check your map, I'm in the middle of the high peaks, still lots of unexplored rock (we did the FA of a stellar hand crack a couple of weeks ago. Good ethics, almost like NC 30 years ago), the most alpine east of the Rockies (do not bleat to me about the Whites--piles of rubble), and it was a low of 42 Mon. night. You should come visit.

Besides, I married an outstanding woman from around here who won't leave. We'll see what she thinks when I expose her to the Sierras.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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