Mountain Project Logo

Intermediate sport climber with some mountaineering experience wants to spend a month stepping up to alpine


Original Post
Jake gakebu@sfamo.com · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

Hi,

This is a somewhat broad and "open" kind of question.

I lead around 7a on (limestone) sport routes, and have done a basic trad climbing course (placing gear, setting up anchors and some problem solving technics) .
Additionally, over the years I've had climbed a few peaks around the world (to elevation of up to 6000m) , in which I've had also followed as second on a nearly vertical ice pitches.

I want to start bringing those things together in the form on alpine climbing, but I'm not sure where to start.
I have the option to spend around a month this summer doing so, so I'd love to get some ideas and advices on how.

The first option I currently have in mind is basing myself in Chamonix for a month and just try doing as much as possible, but that could be tricky as I don't have partners, and I don't know anyone around. Would be a shame to get all the way there just to be running around trying to find people.

The second option is going to Squamish, and focus in rock (taking sport-limestone stuff to granite-trad land)

Thanks
Jake

Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,880

You should get more proficient with climbing on lead on gear first. (And probably ice.) Cham does not offer a lot of easy (rock) alpine routes for the most part.

Jake gakebu@sfamo.com · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0
Aerili wrote: You should get more proficient with climbing on lead on gear first. (And probably ice.) Cham does not offer a lot of easy (rock) alpine routes for the most part.

Hi Aerili, thanks for replying.


What would be the best place to do that? 
Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 236

Jake, I think it would be helpful if you gave a little bit more detail about what "alpine climbing" means to you.  Perhaps some goal routes you'd like to do would be a good way to better frame this discussion.  The reason I say this is because to some people "alpine climbing" means climbing rock routes in an alpine environment, while to others it implies glacier travel, steep ice, and mixed climbing.  I don't think either of these is "right" or "wrong" but it would definitely change the skillset and experience required.

http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2017/06/thats-not-alpine-climbing.html

Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,880

Agree with Kyle.

You can start anywhere, to be honest. You don't need to be in the alpine setting to learn how to lead confidently on gear (and....it's probably not even a good idea). Go anywhere there is granite (but other rock types work too) with appropriate-level routes and relatively low commitment. Try different places. Alpine climbing, in its many forms, is not something you can usually work up to in a summer. But that's, like, just my opinion, man.......

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Mountaineering
Post a Reply to "Intermediate sport climber with some mountainee…"

Log In to Reply