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RMNP Alpine Climbing


Original Post
Josh Vondran · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 173

I'm taking another trip to RMNP in July and am looking to finally get on some alpine rock, after being there countless times with my family. Would anyone have any route suggestions that are must do's for the first time climbing alpine rock in the park?

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 840

Petit Grepon
Spearhead
Sharkstooth

Will Handy · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Also Culp-Bossier

Many of the routes in the park have long approaches, so make sure you take that into account as well as the unpredictable afternoon thunderstorms in the summer. Its common for people to hike in and then bivy overnight for Petit and Sharkstooth so they can start at first light and be hiking out by noon.

Adam Block · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 421

Zowie has a smaller approach and a neat summit pitch

alpinejason · · Minneapolis · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 175

The Casual Route? What grades are you climbing. Helpful to know your intended/anticipated climbing grades. 

Nick Thomas · · Fargo, ND · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 35

Notchtop is another fun one (the 5.9 up it).

Josh Vondran · · Salt Lake City · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 173

I'm fully aware of the approaches, as I've been there about a dozen times. I know exactly where the Petit Grepon, Sharkstooth, and Hallett's are located, and have already hiked all those trails, so other than tail conditions, which should be good mid July, there shouldn't be any surprises. As for grade, I'm looking for 5.8 at the hardest for this trip. Being my first true alpine climbing day, I want to get in some mileage, but don't want to epic for 18 hours (gonna save that for later haha).

Sounds like some good suggestions though.

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 840

Steer clear of Hallets. Petit should be your goal. Only one pitch of 5.8. 

Nick Thomas · · Fargo, ND · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 35

I would add one disclaimer on the Petit, be comfortable on run out 5.8 face or very sure of your routefinding skills.  The second and third to last pitches were a little hard for us to navigate and we probably didn’t get up the easiest way.

Don Ferris III · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

I’d give Syke’s Sickle the title of best moderate climb in the park.  And it has the best approach hike I can think of. And the best bivy cave. 

Philip Magistro · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0
Don Ferris III wrote: I’d give Syke’s Sickle the title of best moderate climb in the park.  And it has the best approach hike I can think of. And the best bivy cave. 

Sykes is harder than 5.8, but but the N. Ridge of Spearhead is a viable option.

Second vote for Zowie: I think it is one of the more approachable alpine routes at the grade.  Others to consider are the N. Face of Longs, the Spiral Route on Notchtop, and Better than Love on Hallett.  
Matt Jones · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 50

If you want something easier with a short approach check out The Great Dihedral on Hallett Peak.  I have climbed many of the other routes mentioned in this form (although not ticked on my MP page) and they are all better routes in my opinion, but The Great Dihedral would be a much shorter day for you especially if 5.8 is your max.  I also went up Better than Love pretty quick too, but if you are up for it Culp-Bossier is probably the best route on Hallett if you are headed that way. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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