Rainier Kautz Route Conditions?

I've heard a lot of hearsay that the Kautz is not in condition to climb this summer.  Apparently a big crevasse is open above the cute.  Does anybody have any solid first or second hand info about what things look like up there?

Much appreciated climbing peeps!

I heard something about that: http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Kautz%20Glacier

I would call Rangers and talk with them directly.

Definitely call the rangers.  It was in good shape as of a couple weeks ago, I highly doubt it's totally out.  It is definitely a bit dry up there this year, but it's still early June!  I bet it goes fine, give it a rip!

I find that there are often reports of "huge crevasse, route is out" on Rainier, and they are often overblown.  It's early June, I am sure the route still goes, it just might require a bit more walking.  I got up the Emmons* in September last year, it was really broken and took a lot of walking, but it went.

(*Caveat, turned around near the top of the route and didn't summit due to partner having AMS)

I had no idea the rangers were open to calls. I’ll post an update for the internets if I get more info. 

Chris, any beta from the rangers? Heading up in a few weeks. I'll call as time nears but wondered if you got any word.

Also curious if there will be running water at the base of the turtle or around the higher camps near hazard as I decide how much fuel to take for our reactor and a party of 2. Looking at the web cams it seems like there is still quite a bit of snow.

For what it's worth, we were up there last year in late June (bigger snow year) and there was running water in 2 locations.  There is a fairly prominent gendarme on the ridge below the Turtle, around 9,200 ft (ish), that had a pretty good sized water flow.  There was also another smaller flow a bit to the west of this location, maybe a few hundred yards west and a few hundred feet lower.  We didn't find anything at Camp Hazard and had to melt snow, but you could definitely fill up at 9k on your way up.  It goes without saying, but a lot of people camp in and around that area, so I'd probably filter, treat, boil, or otherwise "cleanse" that water.

(Obviously, I can't guarantee that you'll find water there this year, but I'd be optimistic).

Also hoping to hit Kautz this season. Let us know what you find out Chris. Thanks

We did the Kautz last year in August when the upper Nisqually was severely broken up, and we were still able to navigate it just fine - lots of walking, but that's about it. The last I heard (from parties that did it two weeks ago), there was still snow in the ice chute, so I can't imagine the route being completely out of condition. Last year the Kautz was still in all the way into late August.

I know that things may be different this year, but last year we found water below the Turtle, at Camp Hazard, and also on top of the Wapowety cleaver. We also took far too little gas -  I'd recommend (at least) an 8oz and a 4oz, or even just two 8oz to be safe with a Reactor.

Good luck, have fun on the Kautz!

Thomas G. wrote: We also took far too little gas -  I'd recommend (at least) an 8oz and a 4oz, or even just two 8oz to be safe with a Reactor.

Is this for 1 night or 2?

For 1 night (normal Kautz itinerary), this seems like a ton of gas.  I just did Lib Ridge as a party of 3, and we used about 12 oz of fuel for 3 guys, 2 nights, melting snow for water.  We had quite a bit left in the first 8 oz canister after the first night.

(MSR 1L Windburner, melting snow but not boiling it, 3X mountain houses for dinner).

Is this for 1 night or 2?

Two nights on the Kautz.

We had a similar experience on Liberty - we were there the day before you guys, and we used about 14 oz for three nights/two guys with a 1.8L windburner. I just think gas is cheap, relatively lightweight, and getting caught out for an extra day on the mountain would be an unpleasant experience without gas. On the Kautz we took 8oz for two nights/two people, and that just was way too close for comfort. I'd have been much happier with 12-16oz of gas, and the weight penalty is trivial. 

For 2 nights I totally agree!  8 oz would be cutting it close.

When I was up there, we only stayed out one night.  Of course, we also failed to summit.    

For 1 night (normal Kautz itinerary)

Also - on that point, I don't know how most people do the Kautz, but because we started at the Comet Falls, we did it in two nights. Comet to the Turtle was a pretty long day, and then the Turtle to Hazard was reasonable.

While you could do Paradise to Hazard in a day, I'd still prefer to do the Kautz in two - that middle day is just such a nice rest day :)

 We are definitely going to give it a go. We will take at least 12 oz of fuel and milk the flow below the turtle.

Thanks for all the input!

Take a black plastic bag and put a bunch of snow in it. If the temps are warm and the sun out it will do the work for you.

Thanks Allen. I think we will do the two day approach so would have time to set this up in the afternoon. That or on the way down at camp muir if we were starting to run on fumes.

Any folks give this a shot this past weekend? Planning on heading up there this weekend.  

Not seeing much useful beta. Weather hasn't been great to say the least. Did see one instagram from Kautz from the last few days:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BkNsLaalTTV/?taken-by=jessica.sagnella#

The second photo does show the snow conditions a bit. Is that a large crack across the upper Kautz above the ice chute?

We leave in a week for an attempt the weekend following you Chris. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Yes, that is a large crack going across the Kautz. As in large ass crack that is pretty impressive. That said the lower Nisqually looks to be in quality shape for crossing.

I guess that’s the big ass crack that everybody is talking about. For what it’s worth, RMI did get a team up the route last week.

I can confirm that the Nisqually is in great shape. I climbed the Furher Finger a couple weeks ago, the route also had a huge crack but it was somewhat passable at the time (maybe not anymore). Lots of big ass cracks in the upper mountain it seems!

My brother and I summited via Kautz on Friday. I didn't notice anything that was a show stopper on the route nor did we have any tricky route finding.

Jon E. wrote: My brother and I summited via Kautz on Friday. I didn't notice anything that was a show stopper on the route nor did we have any tricky route finding.

Thanks for the info!  We ended up getting into a time crunch and just going for the DC this weekend.  Hopefully we'll hit it soon!