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Vail rock climbing


Original Post
Raul P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 35

Does anyone know of a guide book for the rocks around Vail? Found some bolted lines that look pretty fun. 

Bill Mustard · · Silt, CO · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

Vail???? 

Raul P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 35

Indeed, some good looking rock. No idea anything about it.... 

Jonathan Awerbuch · · Boulder, Colorado · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 36

Is it this stuff, near the golf course? mountainproject.com/area/10…

Raul P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 35

That’s definitely some of it, or at least in the area. I wonder if all the bolts I saw were related to the ice... was curious if there was any book/details on the rock only portions. Thanks for the reply. 

WadeM · · Golden, Co · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 320

Pretty much all of that is mixed climbing.
There's climbing in Wolcott and Lime Creek is nearby

Raul P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 35

Are we talking winter mixed as in you need some ice or Trad with the occasional bolt? 

Seb303 · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 10

The Western Sloper guidebook might have some stuff around Vail.  It has a Lime Creek Section.

Evan Crumpecker · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 169

Lots of fully bolted dry-tooling routes up there. People climb there in the summer too, but generally with ice axes.

Western Sloper has the stuff along frying pan road, nothing specifically in the Vail area I think.

TimFromMaine · · Idyllwild, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 30

40 Minutes from Leadville covers a few crags in the Red Cliff Area, Colorado Bouldering book covers some of the Wolcott Area as well as Red Cliff.  The latest Western Sloper has Lime Creek/Jelly Stone. Last I knew there was only a PDF file on Gilman Canyon. Go say Hi to the Red Cliff Crew on Wednesday nights at the Klettergarten for some local beta, bring them some Coors, Budweiser, Miller Genuine or Mickeys depending what you want to know.

Raul P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 35

Thanks everyone, much appreciated. 

S2k 4life · · Abingdon, MD · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 111

There might be a some beta in the falcon guide colorado state climbing..  this website can get you get you by tho..

What i found to be worthwhile and know of is napolean wall a good wall with blocky climbs but a good range of climbs atleast 10 climbs underneath the red cliff bridge jusy before the klettergarden just a 5min walk down the traintracks on the right side. You can see the road up the hill. Fun bolted climbs 55 /60 feet ..

This is gilman canyon . Supposedly ive heard there are more walls in this area with lots of bolts that i dont believe are listed on here. Prolly just furthrr down the train tracks.

In wolcott if you park at the campground with the boulders and walk to the very end through some brush xross the bridge with old train tracks and walk for like 10mins youll see an arrow made out of wood right next to the tracks on the right pointing where to start walking up the hill. The hill is a STEEP loose gravel swithcback thats takes atleast 15 -20mins to get up to where the climbs are. Youll then see a trail left and right with good climbs both ways. Mostly 50 foot sport lines with nice bolts all around and  a couple short trad lines alot of goood climbs here and definitly worthwhile

Lime creek is much further from vail. Like 30mins to eagle then atleasr 45 mins down the dirt road. Its rough and bunpy but you dont need a truck. I wouldnt drive my car on it tho. Alot of people go here, climbers and other outdoor folk, beautiful area, pretty remote but  like i said there will be others. Although you cant beat free camping in a super beautoful area with a 3 mins approach 1 min in some spots to short bit amazing sport xlimbs.

Unlike alot of colorado with alot of dead trees Bring your own wood here and respext burn laws

Happy climbing

PhilD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 0

Homestake and the walls at the campground right near red cliff are the only real legal climbing areas near vail, both are in the 40 min from Leadville books. Rigid designator amphitheater is all ice/mixed/dry tool stuff. That being said there is tons of stuff that is climbed that just needs to be treaded lightly and doesn’t have much info unless you know someone. Walcott has a sport and trad are that has a bit of info here that is generally open to climbing, but there is also a bunch of stuff there that is private and not allowed by the owners. Aircraft carrier has some bolts near homesteak and Gilman canyon is packed with climbing, but that is where you will def need to know someone to get around. There are also some top rope/beginner walls on the side of the road near klettergarden that has some info on here but never seen them in a book.

Raul P · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 35

Love it, thanks everyone. 

S2k 4life · · Abingdon, MD · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 111

The only private property at wolcott is clearly underneath the big houase on the hill overlooking the river a half mile from the campground.. its very obv. None of the routes on here are for that private prop. You can tell wolcott is one of the best places to climb clearly by how many routes there is

Is there a no tresspassing sign at the bridge that crosses the river? Yea but its all good the tracks are very old and not used- the railroad comp has to put that there..

Technically there all over the place and the railroad comp doesnt want you walking theor tracks but for the love of climbing- it must be done... i dont see the cops careing

All off the places to climb around vail are straightforward approaches-- you dont need a local... like any place yea its cool so they know exacrly what and wjhere to go but on colorado anywhere you walk onto the woods find rocks- boom theirs bolts f

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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