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Bizarre clip in AAC Video re Anchor Cleaning


Original Post
Alex Davis · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5

Stumbled across this video about anchor cleaning technique, and noticed something in the video montage at the intro -- specifically, at 0:16.  The belayer seems to catch a fall and then drops the brake strand and proceeds to check her locking carabiner with her brake hand.  What the hell?

Todd Ra · · Golden · Joined May 2014 · Points: 50

I must really be bored at work... but she's not catching a fall, she's pulling the lead rope to check the grig then checking the biner...

frog pirate · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Are we watching the same video? I see a rope feed check, belayer then yanks on the climber side to test the device locks / is threaded correctly (you can see the climber side of the rope going to the ground so it isn't a fall), then checks the carabiner to make sure it's locked. I do those things before every climb, not necessarily in that order though.

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240

Yea are you not watching the video you linked at 16 secs she is pulling the rope herself to make sure it locks and than testing the biner to make sure it is locked as well. She isn't belaying anyone yet the rope is coming out of the device going to her hand and than going back down to the ground.

Alex Davis · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5
frog pirate wrote: Are we watching the same video? I see a rope feed check, belayer then yanks on the climber side to test the device locks / is threaded correctly (you can see the climber side of the rope going to the ground so it isn't a fall), then checks the carabiner to make sure it's locked. I do those things before every climb, not necessarily in that order though.

You are totally right.  I missed the dangling rope on my crappy screen.  Makes way more sense.


Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

You must be really, really bored.  It’s an intro video and yeah...there’s nobody on the other end.  It is a little bizzare that she drops the brake strand but the point seems to be more about double-checking systems and it’s not a demonstrated technique.

Alex Davis · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 5
Ted Pinson wrote: You must be really, really bored.  It’s an intro video and yeah...there’s nobody on the other end.  It is a little bizzare that she drops the brake strand but the point seems to be more about double-checking systems and it’s not a demonstrated technique.

Yes -- really, really  bored at the moment.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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