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Best chimney pitches in the US?


Original Post
Maya L · · Chicago, IL · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 35

Stem, squeeze, bridge galore! What are your favorite chimney routes (single pitches / specific pitches on multipitch climbs)?

Bonus points for folks who won't mention Epinephrine or Astroman. Let's be adventurous and explore the less known!

GabrielKoybz · · Brooklyn · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 615

The Coke Bottle @ Granite Mountain

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 130

The Short Circuit Chimney- Yosemite

Skye Swoboda-Colberg · · Laradise, Dornans, Bham, Cr… · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 115
abe r · · Boise, ID · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 20
^Flaring fun on Castleton!

P2 Honeymoon chimney - just scary enough to keep you honest.

Green mountain pinnacle, flatiorns short but fun.  I'd imagine Steck Salathe may come up?
Nate Redon · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 652
Liquid Sky, "Pressure Chamber" on Hyperspace
Gueule D'amour (not in US)
Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 286
abe r wrote:
^Flaring fun on Castleton!

P2 Honeymoon chimney - just scary enough to keep you honest.

Green mountain pinnacle, flatiorns short but fun.  I'd imagine Steck Salathe may come up?

Honeymoon chimney for p1 offwidth/squeeze, and p2  chimney.  Stellar chimney on a commanding tower!

Cam Hook · · Portland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 85

The Ear. Pitch 18 of the Salathe

Keatan · · MT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 50

Original variation of East Buttress, Middle Cathedral.

Russ Walling · · www.FishProducts.com · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 3,276

Last 3 pitches of Wild Thing in the Valley

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
Keatan wrote: Original variation of East Buttress, Middle Cathedral.

Pretty memorable pair of wide pitches on that one for sure.

Cam Hook · · Portland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 85

Steck Salathe, Yosemite Valley

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 13,352

Corvus Chimney, Texas Canyon, California (5.9).

Dan 60D5H411 · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,077
John Wilder wrote:

Pretty memorable pair of wide pitches on that one for sure.

I did these 10+ years ago and, although fun, they were a bit flaring and filled with pine needles since all of the traffic took the new route.  Maybe it's cleaned up since then?


Have to second Honeymoon Chimney, as well as a short section on Tunnel Vision and a myriad of routes at Vedauwoo. 
John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

After giving it some thought, the final pitch of Middle Earth in Red Rock was pretty great. A 80' fully enclosed 4-5' wide vertical tunnel- and at 5.7, pretty fun too.

John Douglass · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 60

Iron Messiah in Zion is pretty chimneytastic.

Jon Rhoderick · · Redmond, OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 865

Chimney Pitch of N Ridge on Steeple Peak in the Wind River Range. Feels like you chimney through the mountain to a nice head wall on the other side

Detrick Snyder · · Michigan, for now · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 140

I remember reading in Desert Rock about a Jim Beyer route, something like Zen Warrior Ninja or something like that - after pitches of some heinous aid climbing, the true mental crux comes with a 50-ft, no-pro chimney pitch too wide to stem (as in, you're looking straight down the whole way). Anybody know the name of the climb I'm thinking about?

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240

I think my favorite one I have climbed was Crackerjack. First pitch is a boulder problem followed by easy face climbing with a small roof before the anchor on the first pitch. Pitch 2 starts with an offwidth crack that ends into a big cave. Once in the cave you start the chimney that is wide and gets smaller the higher you go until you wedge yourself through the end and pop out the top of it at the finish.

Keatan · · MT · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 50
Dan G0D5H411 wrote:

I did these 10+ years ago and, although fun, they were a bit flaring and filled with pine needles since all of the traffic took the new route.  Maybe it's cleaned up since then?

It's been six years since I climbed them, don't remember any pine needles but definitely still flaring. A memorable couple of pitches at the least.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 380
abe r wrote:
^Flaring fun on Castleton!

P2 Honeymoon chimney - just scary enough to keep you honest.

Green mountain pinnacle, flatiorns short but fun.  I'd imagine Steck Salathe may come up?

Agreed, but it is on The Priest, not Castleton.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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