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2 climbers die in fall from el cap


Original Post
Abdullah Mourad · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
https://www.nbcbayarea.com/news/local/Two-Climbers-Dead-After-Fall-From-Yosemites-El-Capitan-484388871.html

Sad news out of Yosemite today. No info available yet as to identity. Rumored to have been climbing the Freerider.

Condolences to the climbers and their families.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=3093022&tn=0

Stay safe out there, everyone.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476

It's neither Tommy Caldwell nor Alex Honnold, as they have just checked in. It's also not anyone in John Long's birthday party. The rumor is that it might be a party from Boulder. Anyone know about that?

Parker D · · BC · Joined May 2017 · Points: 60

Identities just released. 

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476

The park released their names They are: Jason Wells, age 46, of Boulder, Colorado and Tim Klein, age 42, from Palmdale, California.

Lon Harter · · Reno · Joined May 2018 · Points: 214

RIP sad day in the Valley

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 1,140

It sounds like a haul bag from another party fell from above and pulled both climbers off.

Kelly Cramer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

Becky and family, you are in our thoughts and prayers. We hold you in our hearts and are here for you please reach out as needed.

-Kelly 

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 196

Naked Edge record Jason Wells?

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476
Bruce Hildenbrand wrote: It sounds like a haul bag from another party fell from above and pulled both climbers off.

Now they are saying that didn't happen. We'll have to wait for a more complete report.

Matt Wetmore · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2017 · Points: 45
Long Ranger wrote: Naked Edge record Jason Wells?

Yes :(

Warriors · · Rock City, GA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 310

RIP gents. Condolences to all involved.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Santa Claus · · San Diego · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0

Any new details?

Jason Wells · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2001 · Points: 100

Very bummed to hear this news. Though we'd only met a couple times, we had a good chuckle over our matching names, ages, and interests. Jason was the climber I'd always hoped I could be: dedicated, strong, talented, and always seeking out adventure. Who wouldn't want to get solid enough to sprint up Eldo 5.11s and take enough trips to Yosemite to be able to run laps on El Cap?

A very strange and thoughtful day to be a climber, especially one living in Boulder and also named Jason Wells. Lots of friends called to check-in, which is an entirely surreal and humbling experience. Stay safe out there and, whatever you do, take the time to appreciate the ride.

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 170

Question about simul-climbing:   How many pieces are typically in the system at a given time?  These guys would have had a couple of cams plugged, right?   Would a team ever simul-climb with no pro?

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,485
Russ Keane wrote: Question about simul-climbing:   How many pieces are typically in the system at a given time?  These guys would have had a couple of cams plugged, right?   Would a team ever simul-climb with no pro?

Simluing and speed climbing aren't necessarily hand in hand, simlu is just one speed climbing tactic. I simlu all the time but there's a full pitch of gear between me and the follower.

I get the impression that during these speed climbs there may only be one piece of gear between climbers.
Warriors · · Rock City, GA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 310
Russ Keane wrote: Question about simul-climbing:   How many pieces are typically in the system at a given time?  These guys would have had a couple of cams plugged, right?   Would a team ever simul-climb with no pro?

Absolutely. The section below Mammoth is "easy"...when I was doing FB bitd I would only have a handful of pieces in and I was pretty conservative, especially by today's standards. 


When you are going super fast, much of it's going to be free solo mentality imo...justifiably so.

Even doing El Cap in a day you have parts where you have that "can't fall, consequences beyond thinking about" mentality IME.
Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
Russ Keane wrote These guys would have had a couple of cams plugged, right?  
One would hope.  I seem to remember an article where Dean Potter and Tim O'Neill whipped simuling with only two cams in and a single half rope, but it all held.  That is some scary stuff.

 Would a team ever simul-climb with no pro?

I would hope not. 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,187
Russ Keane wrote: Question about simul-climbing:   How many pieces are typically in the system at a given time?  These guys would have had a couple of cams plugged, right?   Would a team ever simul-climb with no pro?

It really depends on what is agreed upon. In most cases one wants one good piece at all times. The difficulty, terrain, and other conditions may dictate that more gear is used. When it comes to such gear on rock it is reasonable to expect that the good piece will be bomber. In the alpine setting, it is a different ball game. We were just on a route where placing pickets was the only option. They would have held a short tumbling fall but probably not a long fall. We also climbed large sections roped sans gear but where we felt we could catch a fall given the snow conditions. 

The accident report will probably have some clarity to the equipment being used at the time of the fall. I.e., they were roped together, if the rope was not severed then any gear used would presumably still be attached. Which a reasonable conclusion would be one fell and the gear did not hold the fall pulling the other off.
Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 170

I was just reading the thread about this on supertopo.   Per a witness from the ground who was watching the ascent diligently, a haul bag dropped from above was definitely involved (in spite of the earlier confusion as to whether this was the case or not).  I suppose this could have caused pieces to rip out?  One would think cams would hold even if hit with debris from above, but who knows.   Maybe they were indeed simul-soloing the pitch.   Weird though, because they had a third climber with them.  

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 521
(These guys would have had a couple of cams plugged, right?) Ryan Swanson wrote: One would hope.  I seem to remember an article where Dean Potter and Tim O'Neill whipped simuling with only two cams in and a single half rope, but it all held.  That is some scary stuff.

(Would a team ever simul-climb with no pro?) I would hope not. 

Lol. Hope all you want, but the reality is that for a pair of climbers who climb at the level where they can do both the Nose and Salathe sub-24 hours, you can almost guarantee that they're not going to be stopping to plug in pro on 5.7 terrain. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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