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New Nose Speed Record - Honnold and TC


Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10
Garrett Genereux · · Laramie, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 10
Austin Siadak image.

Dialed, clearly. 
Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255

Jesus, I carry more gear when I lead a 40 foot hand crack that I have dialed.

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

That photo is amazing.   Let's all celebrate a 50 foot slack loop in a rope! 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

It just went down: 1:58:07
Tommy and Alex.

Edit: added the correct seconds.

Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,170

Does Potter still have the solo speed record of the Nose?  I think that should be Honnold's next objective so he can completely own the route.

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 372
Jplotz wrote: Does Potter still have the solo speed record of the Nose?  I think that should be Honnold's next objective so he can completely own the route.

Except for the fact that neither Dean nor Alex have freed the route

Warrior · · Rock City, GA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 310
.

AFAIK Potter still has the Nose solo record (with oodles of free solo), but if anyone has better intel post up.  . https://youtu.be/q7NmnmgWT5M?t=179 "Don't touch me"
Jon Frisby · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 110
John Clark wrote:

Except for the fact that neither Dean nor Alex have freed the route

Hoping the next objective is for an in a day free ascent of the Nose and RNWF of Half Dome in a day with TC and Honnlove sending all pitches.

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 372
Jon Frisby wrote:

Hoping the next objective is for an in a day free ascent of the Nose and RNWF of Half Dome in a day with TC and Honnlove sending all pitches.

Has RNWF gone free again? That last 15' to the chimney pitches is pretty blank

Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,170
John Clark wrote:

Except for the fact that neither Dean nor Alex have freed the route

Yes thank you for pointing that out. In the hierarchy of Nose ownership, Lynn Hill free IAD still sits atop.

Kyle Elliott · · Everett, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 580
John Clark wrote:

Has RNWF gone free again? That last 15' to the chimney pitches is pretty blank

I thought the free line bypassed the rockfall section. Maybe I'm thinking of something else. 

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
Warrior wrote:
AFAIK Potter still has the Nose solo record (with oodles of free solo), but if anyone has better intel post up.  . https://youtu.be/q7NmnmgWT5M?t=179 "Don't touch me"

Pretty sure Honnold has it these days via the same method. I think he did it when he did Watkins, Half Dome, and El Cap in a day...

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240
John Wilder wrote:

Pretty sure Honnold has it these days via the same method. I think he did it when he did Watkins, Half Dome, and El Cap in a day...

Video of him doing that is so funny because at one point in the non-edited version I think he asked the camera man do you want me to make it look like i am struggling or something like that.

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 372
Kyle Elliott wrote:

I thought the free line bypassed the rockfall section. Maybe I'm thinking of something else. 

It bypasses the first half of the rockfall at the moment.

Eli Grossenbacher · · Bozeman,MT · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 30
Found this picture somewhere on Instagram of one of the speed attempts, I was curious if any knows if those rope/webbing handles on the bolts were installed by alex and tommy for the speed record or if those are usually there?
mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
Eli Grossenbacher wrote:
Found this picture somewhere on Instagram of one of the speed attempts, I was curious if any knows if those rope/webbing handles on the bolts were installed by alex and tommy for the speed record or if those are usually there?

Sadly, there is usually junk all over the route.


The real question is to what extent it is "valid" to prep the route for a speed ascent... you could imagine going much faster on the route by placing pins and tat in select locations. 
John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 59
Steve Marshall wrote: So are they done now?

Yes.


At least according to Sanni's IG account, the "speed burns are over" now.

I for one am relieved.  I know these two are super competent, but it's still nerve-wracking knowing how far they're pushing things up there.
Ryan Palo · · Bend, oregon · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 585
Eli Grossenbacher wrote:
Found this picture somewhere on Instagram of one of the speed attempts, I was curious if any knows if those rope/webbing handles on the bolts were installed by alex and tommy for the speed record or if those are usually there?

That's just normal/expected tat on the bolts heading into the crux of the changing corner pitch. Used by most ascents. There's quite a few places on the route with that type of tat. 

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240

The nose is rated 5.8 / 5.9 C2 so you don't need to hammer your own shit in the walls as you are climbing but still always been odd to me to call it clean since you are using permanent gear that is left in the wall for aiding parts of it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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