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New Nose Speed Record - Honnold and TC


Original Post
kalockwood · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 236

According to Brad Gobright's Instagram, there is a new Nose speed record. 2:09:-something.

It seems like sub 2 hours is definitely possible.

Taylor Lapeyre · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 179

I cannot imagine the kind of shenanigans involved to shave almost 10min from what Brad and Jim were able to do. Hats off to both of them, excited to see what comes next!

kalockwood · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 236
Kyle Elliott · · Everett, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 775

I made a post then saw yours so i deleted it :)

Saw 2:10 on Alex's girlfriend's IG

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407
Taylor Lapeyre wrote: I cannot imagine the kind of shenanigans involved to shave almost 10min from what Brad and Jim were able to do. Hats off to both of them, excited to see what comes next!

Just a rumor, but I think they did the Jardine Traverse in lieu of the king swing (?) Can anyone confirm?

John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 59
John Clark wrote:

Just a rumor, but I think they did the Jardine Traverse in lieu of the king swing (?) Can anyone confirm?

That would be surprising since the pitches after that are harder and slower than the traditional route.  I'd imagine they used Brad G's trick to avoid the 2nd going to the top of the boot... that looked really efficient (and dangerous since you have to solo boot flake).

Kyle Elliott · · Everett, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 775
John RB wrote:

That would be surprising since the pitches after that are harder and slower than the traditional route.  I'd imagine they used Brad G's trick to avoid the 2nd going to the top of the boot... that looked really efficient (and dangerous since you have to solo boot flake).

I think that's how Dean and Sean did it, too. 

John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 59
Kyle Elliott wrote:

I think that's how Dean and Sean did it, too. 

I think that's true, actually.


Based on a TC Insta post today, they didn't do the Jardine traverse.... the pic shows him clipping the bolts off Texas Flake.
John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407
John RB wrote:

I think that's true, actually.


Based on a TC Insta post today, they didn't do the Jardine traverse.... the pic shows him clipping the bolts off Texas Flake.

Just saw that

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
John RB wrote:

I think that's true, actually.


Based on a TC Insta post today, they didn't do the Jardine traverse.... the pic shows him clipping the bolts off Texas Flake.

those pictures are from previous nose practice runs.... its a repost from: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjTXawwHYcs/?taken-by=austin_siadak
John RB · · Superior, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 59
mpech wrote:

those pictures are from previous nose practice runs.... its a repost from: 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjTXawwHYcs/?taken-by=austin_siadak

Sure, but it's unlikely they practiced on the original route then switched to the Jardine Traverse for the record burn.   I could be wrong, but I think it's unlikely...

John Clark · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 407

Tommy is back to working his block on the nose according the substitute van-school teacher Little Alex H. 

Jon Cheifitz · · Superior, Co · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 65

Looks like they went at it again, taking the time down more.

https://www.mensjournal.com/adventure/alex-honnold-and-tommy-caldwell-speed-record-yosemite-el-capitan-nose/
"Update: On June 4, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell broke their own speed record on the Nose route of El Capitan, taking it down by more than eight minutes to two hours, one minute, and 50 seconds. Honnold has long maintained he can take the record under two hours. “Sadly, we got a rope stuck at the top [today] and Tommy had to rap a bit,” Honnold says. “Cost us a few minutes, I think. But good progress.” The two will continue to work on shaving off more time in the coming week. "

Russ Keane · · Asheville, NC · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 150

Jeez man, posing with pictures of their friend's casted Broken ankles.... man if you're not a rock climber you think all these people are out of their minds.

David Kerkeslager · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 127

There's a certain permanence to breaking the 2 hour mark that other records won't have, I think. It's likely that even if TC and Honnold break the 2 hour mark, some future mutant speed demon will break their record. But Roger Bannister is a name that stands out in running because he's the first person to break the 4 minute mile, even though Wikipedia says 1400 runners have beaten his record at this point, and I think this will be similar.

Jplotz · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,190
David Kerkeslager wrote:But Roger Bannister is a name that stands out in running because he's the first person to break the 4 minute mile, even though Wikipedia says 1400 runners have beaten his record at this point, and I think this will be similar.

This is an interesting point and comparison. I think the 4 minute mile milestone stands out with most people because most people have run a mile for time at least once in his/her life, PE, fun runs or competitive runs, making it much easier to relate. 

Not so much with a sub two hour Nose  Sub two hour NIAD will be mind blowing and unimaginable to those who have climbed the route, fucking impressive to climbers in general, cool to those who have climbed once in their life, and a big shoulder shrug to everyone else. Kind of like the buzz when Honnold free aoloed El Cap, which I think was and is the most impressive athletic achievement in our time, but very under appreciated by the general public.
Hobo Greg · · My Van · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 175
Jplotz wrote:

This is an interesting point and comparison. I think the 4 minute mile milestone stands out with most people because most people have run a mile for time at least once in his/her life, PE, fun runs or competitive runs, making it much easier to relate. 

Not so much with a sub two hour Nose  Sub two hour NIAD will be mind blowing and unimaginable to those who have climbed the route, fucking impressive to climbers in general, cool to those who have climbed once in their life, and a big shoulder shrug to everyone else. Kind of like the buzz when Honnold free aoloed El Cap, which I think was and is the most impressive athletic achievement in our time, but very under appreciated by the general public.

I think you misunderestimate the (short-term) fascination the public has with Honnold. They were definitely not just shoulder shrugging when he soloed free rider. In fact, that will stand out in greater relief to the general public than will any speed record because everyone can understand what soloing is.

Josh Gates · · Wilmington, DE · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 1
Hobo Greg wrote:

I think you misunderestimate the (short-term) fascination the public has with Honnold. They were definitely not just shoulder shrugging when he soloed free rider. In fact, that will stand out in greater relief to the general public than will any speed record because everyone can understand what soloing is.

Especially after the movie comes out (soon, I hope!)

Spencer Parkin · · Bountiful · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Did they _free_ El Cap in that record-breaking time, or were there points of aide?

Kyle Elliott · · Everett, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 775
Taylor Parkin wrote: Did they _free_ El Cap in that record-breaking time, or were there points of aide?

Speed climbing (particularly the style done on el cap) is climb by any means necessary. Fixed gear, bolts, other party's stuff, etc is all on. However the majority of the climbing is done free. 

Spencer Parkin · · Bountiful · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0
Kyle Elliott wrote:

Speed climbing (particularly the style done on el cap) is climb by any means necessary. Fixed gear, bolts, other party's stuff, etc is all on. However the majority of the climbing is done free. 

I see.  That brings some justification, then, to a humorous moment I saw through the video taken by a few climbers on El Cap of some speed climbers simul-climbing past them, but stopping to chug their water as they sped by.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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