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Fixed sling at top of NW corner of Monkey Face


Original Post
Will Koomjian · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2015 · Points: 10

Hey all, I’ve been projecting the NW corner lately and was puzzling over the location of the final pro bolt at the top. It’s so high that by the time you would clip it on lead, you’re through the difficult climbing and just doing the easy hand traverse to the top out.

It seems to me that the bolt is placed there with the idea of having a long sling dangling off it, so I put a double length up there. Now it’s in a perfect location to protect those last few moves and not give you crazy rope drag as you traverse right after the bolt.

It would be cool if my sling stayed there for facilitating easy leading from the ground up. Anyone have any opinions about that bolt placement? Am I on point or way off here?

Kevin MP · · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 357

You're right that the bolt is tough to clip until you have moved past it, and you're right that a long sling is best for rope drag. To me the bolt mainly seemed to serve as a directional for the second. Clipping it before the final hard moves out of the corner would totally change the character of the route, and trad routes don't usually get fixed draws.

Totally reasonable to leave it up there while you are projecting the route but I wouldn't expect it to stay up there for too long.

Will Koomjian · · Portland, OR · Joined May 2015 · Points: 10

Thanks for sharing your thoughts Kevin! You make a good point about there not usually being any pre-placed slings on trad routes, and I hadn't really considered that the bolt may have been intended solely as a directional for TRing or seconding. But it would make sense if that was the intention. I assumed that it was an original protection bolt, and thought maybe it was moved higher to accommodate a long sling. FWIW I talked to the guy who rebolted this route in 2005 and he couldn't remember anything at all about it.

I didn't think the last moves getting to the bolt are that bad, but seems like without a pre-hung long sling you'd be looking at a huge fall onto a brassie if you blew it. Either way I think I'll try it with the long sling first and then later try it again without.

Cheers

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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