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Walk Up Anchors in Sierra Eastside?


Original Post
Kate Rathbun · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Hey y'all-- my friend and I can't lead yet, but are wondering if there's any confirmed walk up anchors we can set TR on in the eastside? Weather permitting, we'd like to hit Alabama Hills on Friday, and anywhere between Lone Pine and Bishop Sat/Sun.

Thanks!

Paul Morrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

Not quite in your specified range, but walk-up anchors aren't as common as some of us would like them to be:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/112287798/silver-lake

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Kate.... Hi. You might try posting in the SoCalifornia section because the east side is really southern California - no matter what the colorado biased MP founders say.     

If you can learn to lead- do it ASAP.... try the easy climbs in the A-hills, leading them is almost the same as a TR.

or

Learn how to ask if somebody can set your rope for you.... just have 2 QDs and your rope ready to hand over to a party who is finished on a climb you think you want to try. IF you know how to get down.

This is a nice spot, go early in the morning, it gets hot latter in the day..... some really fine bouldering is located below the slabs, in the trees along the stream.

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105896570/iris-slab

.Have fun

Paul Morrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

Just to clarify Guy's recommendation: Iris Slab has several walk-up anchors (thanks for reminding me). But it's not a good crag for new leaders; the protection is a lot trickier than the climbing.

Floyd "PC" Eggers · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 351
Use at your own risk. Not suitable for minors. Parental advisory...
One way to get a TR setup from the ground up is to stick clip (or cheater stick for this purpose) to the highest bolt it can reach. Test the bolt and your gear before you ascend. Then you climb or cheat (pull yourself up the belay side rope as your belayer locks you off between pulls) your way to a higher bolt with the stick in tow. Then PAS (even a quickdraw will work) yourself to the bolt. Clip a new draw on the climber side rope and have the belayer give slack while you clip higher. Rinse and repeat until you are at the victory anchors, then set up the TR by whatever means.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310
Paul Morrison wrote: Just to clarify Guy's recommendation: Iris Slab has several walk-up anchors (thanks for reminding me). But it's not a good crag for new leaders; the protection is a lot trickier than the climbing.

Paul.... I disagree. Iris is one of the better places to teach a fledgling Trad Leader- who can lead sport. There are only two climbs that are good. Both are low angle thin crack climbs with knobs to the side for hands free gear fiddling and the numerous other cracks, found right on the ground, lets you have the new leader place gear, of different types, in the same spot and test it.

The other climbs are sort of PG or R and they also make bomb TRs. 
splitclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 6

possibly this spot in pine creek.  You'll need a 70m rope and is not straight forward as you need to rap off top to access the base routes.  Lead climbers may not be happy about someone scrambling up to set up a top rope above them either so I wouldn't top rope there is someone is already climbing.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/110026159/uptown-rock-upper-tier

drive up toward Mammoth and go here.  The newest Mammoth guide has these climbs.
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/111528639/rimview-cliffs

Iris slab would be a great place to top rope.

Ian Machen · · Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi , Japan · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35
https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105881494/locals-only-rock 

Locals Only Rock has some areas you can scramble up to, to set up top ropes. There are bolts up top, but the 4th class scramble with occasional 5.easy moves make it fun to get to them. California>Sierra Eastside>Eastern Hills>Benton Crags.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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