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Alpine Draws. What carabiners are you using?


Original Post
Sam Striano · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Was just wondering what you recommend for Alpine Draws... I know this is personal preference, but was looking for pro's and con's.

Thanks!

Chris Blatchley · · Somerville, MA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

camp nano 22 gear side, camp photon rope side. super light weight, and the photon action is very nice with a big basket. they are also practically always on sale. mammut contact sling is also super low profile with minimal snag area since the stitching (splicing?) is wrapped in itself.

Sam Striano · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Chris Blatchley wrote: camp nano 22 gear side, camp photon rope side. super light weight, and the photon action is very nice with a big basket. they are also practically always on sale. mammut contact sling is also super low profile with minimal snag area since the stitching (splicing?) is wrapped in itself.

Why would you NOT use Nano 22's/Photons on both sides, on way or the other? Just curious.

Kirtis Courkamp · · Golden · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 378

Cypher Ceres 2 or the Trango phase same carabiner and it's cheap and light and not too small.

Roamin' Buffalo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 50
Chris Blatchley wrote: camp nano 22 gear side, camp photon rope side. super light weight, and the photon action is very nice with a big basket. they are also practically always on sale. mammut contact sling is also super low profile with minimal snag area since the stitching (splicing?) is wrapped in itself.

Second this setup. I've got nanos on both ends. If I climbed with doubles, I'd swap photons on the rope side.

bkozak · · Sterling, VA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 70
Sam Striano wrote:

Why would you NOT use Nano 22's/Photons on both sides, on way or the other? Just curious.

Nano 22s are hard to clip because they're so small, so they're not good for rope side.  Photons are super easy to clip by comparison.  Nano 22s are better for gear side because they're lighter, less bulky on the harness, and still easy to handle even if you have larger hands.

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 35

CAMP Photons 100%, love them

I don't want to be thinking which side is gear which is rope. 

Sam Striano · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Ashort wrote: CAMP Photons 100%, love them

I don't want to be thinking which side is gear which is rope. 

Do you use different colors for rope and gear sides?

rafael · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 50

personally, I can't stand tiny biners on either end of the draw. If you think its hard to use a small biner normally, imagine when your hands are getting numb... I tried small biners for a while. now I just take to the mountains my normal trad runners which have heliums for rope, and smallish full size biners for gear end.

Chris Blatchley · · Somerville, MA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0
Sam Striano wrote:

Do you use different colors for rope and gear sides?

i happened to buy half the carabiners for my alpines at the same time, so all my gear side biners are green (i just liked the color, but also it totally works as "green for gear"). but that's just me. other side are frankenbiners. whatever i head laying around, but mostly photons. having at least gear side of consistent biners is nice. can rack them a little faster

Dan Friedman · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 55

Wild Country Helium is my favorite Biner - super lightweight and large/easy clipping.  The only downside is obvious... 14 bucks for a single non-locking biner.  I managed to scoop some up used not sure I'd pay full price for a bunch of them, but if money wasn't an issue I'd use them exclusively.

Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255

I also use Helium's and love them. Bought a bunch while they were on sale, I think they came out to $9 each or thereabouts. 

Charles DuPont · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 10

Dyon's are my go to, I like them so much better than Photon's.  Something about the gate tension on photon's drives me crazy for whatever reason.  Got a bunch of purple dyons on sale so I use those for rope side and silver for gear/bolt side.

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 35
Sam Striano wrote:

Do you use different colors for rope and gear sides?

No, I don't. My racking biners, for the most part, match the color coding of the cams. 

Dave Leydet · · West Point, NY · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 90

Petzl Ange L's!

Barry M · · WV · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

Helium’s! If you look around for them you can find them for sale in the $7 range. Might take you awhile to score them but you can get them for cheap over time. 

Caleb Schwarz · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 115

Neutrinos and nano 22's 

Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 766

BD Oz's

Sam Striano · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Barry M wrote: Helium’s! If you look around for them you can find them for sale in the $7 range. Might take you awhile to score them but you can get them for cheap over time. 

Where can you find them for that price? I have looked and looked and found around $10 a pop.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 15,610

The  climber's above all have good suggestions relative to weight and clipping, but here's a slightly different slant: First, most of my draws are alpine draws to begin with, even on sport routes, although well over 1/2 of my climbing is Trad.   Second, I usually have 2 or 3 of the draws set up with a light-wt-locker on at least one end (and 1 set with lockers on both ends). Most of the time, especially on trad routes, clipping isn't a big problem so who cares if you need an extra second or two to lock a screw gate, and sometimes, like: 1) when you're not sure if you're going left or right of the pro, and 2) when the bottom biner could open if it hit the rock in a certain way, or 3) when it's your ONLY piece between you and the ground (or big ledge).. you want to have the extra security of knowing the biner is just "never" going to open, or do a "rope unclip".  

99.9% of all protection placed never catches a fall, but that 0.1% of the time you don't want it to screw up. Accidents in North American Rock Climbing always has at least one accident due to either the rope unclipping itself or biner opening/failure. 

Ryan Pfleger · · North Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 15

Nano 22s for both sides, although if I were doing more climbing with gloves, I would use Photons.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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