rest and progress in nonlinear periodization

For the first time, I've switched to a schedule based on nonlinear periodization (previously tried to follow something closer to RCTM which I couldn't really make work with my schedule since I try to climb rock in the spiring-fall and ice/alpine in the winter).  I've been happy with the my initial progress with the new plan, but have a couple of questions about how people are organizing their nonlinear training long term:

1. My plan is to train 4 weeks then rest for a week. How are other people planning their rest and what are they doing that week?

2. Where are people starting the next cycle after a rest? I.e., right back with the volume/weight that they were at prior to their rest period? Somewhere slightly below the previous cycle max?

For the record, I'm older (45) and climb predominantly trad. I'm most concerned with stamina on long sustained pitches. I'm also leaving my alpine training (cardio) on a regular long-term periodization.

kind of a broad question, since you didn't specify what aspects you are actually training with this protocol. Finger strength? Forearm endurance? But just to use plain arbitrary "numbers" to represent whatever training load you are trying to progress (whether grade, climbing volume, hang weight, route length/# of laps, whatever) - I structure the blocks so that the 1st week's load is somewhere in the middle of the previous block's load. In a 3-week block, if your loads were 10, 15, 20 then for the next 3-week block I would do 15, 20, 25. I would NOT, for example do 10-15-20-rest-25-30-35

obviously the magnitudes and size of the jumps is a personal factor. In most cases I like to modulate TWO variables during each block, that is intensity and volume. So Week 1 is High Volume, lower intensity, then Wk2 is medium vol / med intensity, then Wk3 low vol / high intensity. That way over time the intensity increases but also the next cycle you are taking your intensity from last cycle and working it at a higher volume, driving progression.

for rest weeks I just do lighter intensity / low-volume versions of normal training. want to keep moving to aid recovery and not sit like a lump, but it should be significantly lower load than your usual training. great time to do technique drills on easy terrain.

this has been a pretty common theme in a lot of other nonlinear periodized programs i've followed for other sports, not just climbing

Thanks Steve. That was very helpful and mirrored my rough plan. I especially like your thoughts on modulating both intensity and volume. I'm doing a mix roughly based on Bechtel's book. I.e., fingerboarding 3-6-9 also as per Bechtel) 1-2x/week, a day of endurance training and a day of max bouldering then 1-2 days of issue climbing.  I plan on changing too the exact exercises once I see a slow down in progression (and will also think about volume/intensity modulation at that point, too).

For the fingerboard, I am adding volume over a cycle, but not adding weight/moving down in hold size. I'm only doing the later between cycles.

My main goal is a plan that keeps me training and progressing while still maximizing the time I can spend actually climbing (at 45, gotta enjoy it as much as I can now while still building for the future). After just a few cycles, this already seems to work better for me than the more linear periodization a la RCTM.

I've done between 3-5 days of complete rest about every 4th week, on that week I'll do a few limit problems (usually my four set warm up problems on moonboard) before the intensive endurance session. Another day that week I'll do strength, no hangboard, half the usual volume.

I'm able to come back the next week doing whatever my focus is with a slight bump in intensity and/or volume from the last load week. 

Agree with Nick, 3-5 days of complete rest from climbing training every 4-5 weeks. A "de-load" is really nice especially as we get older. Everything beats back down with inflammation that has built up over the weeks of training and I'm usually stronger after that rest than before (its working!). There's no need to reset/lower weights if you were progressing well. Usually a deload will pre-empt a stall in progress so with the additional boost from a de-load you are good to go to resume your progress. A stall shortly after a de-load means you need to re-assess goals/weaknesses and bring something up so progress can continue.