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Metolious ultralight master cams


Original Post
Connor zanath · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 15

Looking to build a trad rack for the nrg and rrg. Thinking about geting some metolios utralights and want to know some opinions

Peter T · · New Joisey · Joined May 2016 · Points: 10

I love the mastercams, I use the 0, 1, and 2 most times I go out. The next size I have is the 6 which I also like but I slightly prefer other cams in the larger sizes. A single rack of mastercams is a great option and if you get doubles in any sizes I'd get BD or DMM, or if you're rich, totems. It's nice to have doubles in a different brand because they will fit certain placements better.

Andrew Seymour · · Folsom, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

I don't climb in those areas but I do have a few master cams. I have 0-4 and am very happy with them. The trigger action is stiff and feels good in the hand. The blue and yellow (1 and 2) are my favorite cams, I carry them on every climb.

The 0 isn't flexy enough for me and I prefer Alien Revos at those really tiny sizes. The lack of thumb loops seems like more of a mental thing than a practical concern. I've been gripped and struggled to place an X4 just as much as a MC.

The 4 is about as big as I would go with the master cams as it feels a bit floppy and I expect the bigger ones would be worse about that. I would lean toward the new Friends for the bigger sizes if I were to build my rack again. That said, the Metolius are really solid cams and are usually the first I go for when I need a piece in their size.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456

The new Ultralight MasterCams stems are appropriately stiff in the larger sizes.

Hans · · Squamish, BC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 2,102

Used to like them. I have the new ones now and miss the thumb loop. Prefer Aliens by a wide margin

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 1,655

Yeah.  I loved the old ones and really don't love the new ones.  The lack of a thumbloop forces you to basically relearn the process of moving the cam from your harness to your hand while placing.  Additionally, not having the thumbloop for aid climbing is decidedly a step backwards.  With C3s discontinuing, the de-evolution of mastercams, and Totem basics getting recalled, I'm a little concerned about what small cams I'm going to be using in 2-4 years.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456

I have to say despite the fact I thought I would, I don't miss the thumb loop at all, but then I also don't really do much aid climbing.

CThornton · · Boise · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 66

I like em but they're not perfect. the 4 (red) and 8 (purple) are a little floppy, and you definitely notice the lack of range relative to camalots toward the larger sizes. The 00 is also not a great piece, the 0.1 x4 or black alien is a much better option if you really need something that tiny. They're really great cams in general though, they're super freaking light and a much much better deal than camalot ultralights and only $3 a pop to resling. I've never minded the lack of a thumb loop but YMMV. Overall, highly recommended for a first set of cams.

Jeff Luton · · Ventucky Ca · Joined Aug 2016 · Points: 5

Had a few of the old ones, and one new one. Loved the old ones, no thumb loop made the new one a little awkward sometimes to place. That being said I still use rigid stem friends and I don’t find those awkward at all to place

Tavish Hansen · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 135

Get 0 through 4 (purple through red) and nothing larger.  

The smaller sizes are great and TCUs/supercams/mastercams are my go to cams for that size range, but the decreased camming range (single axle design and larger cam angle) is a lot more noticeable for the larger sizes so go with C4s for those.

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 286

You can't go wrong with a set of 0-8 ul mastercams.  Lightest cams on the market, and probably the most durable too.  

Metolius has awesome CS for any repairs.

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 286
Tavish Hansen wrote: Get 0 through 4 (purple through red) and nothing larger.  

The smaller sizes are great and TCUs/supercams/mastercams are my go to cams for that size range, but the decreased camming range (single axle design and larger cam angle) is a lot more noticeable for the larger sizes so go with C4s for those.

Disagree with this.  May take some learnimg, but I've always liked that I have an additional cam to place in the medium to larger sizes compared to BD.  


It's also nice to have a full set of cams that will compliment your partners rack of likely BDs, dmm, or WCs, especially if you do any desert climbing.
Cole T · · Cincinnati, OH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 381

Most of my friends and myself included climb in the RRG with doubles of Mastercam from 1-2 and Doubles BD .5-3, Single 4 and a set of nuts

Adam Block · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 334

They are bomber for the price but my favorite thing about them is that they are low profile; like fit a whole single rack in a camelback small! I like having these to be between some of the standard sizes and it can feel like having a triple rack on non splitter routes for example. E.I. Route calls for .4 x 3 and I rack up with a .4 and a yellow and orange Metolius.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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