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Starting trad rack for Pacific Northwest climbing.


Original Post
Sam Striano · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

I am building out a starter rack for the Pacific Northwest, and have decided to start with mostly passive pro.

I will be climbing in the Willamette Valley, Portland area and of course Smith Rock.

I grew up climbing in Big Bear and Joshua Tree, but have been away from the sport for a bit.

I have the following and was wondering what I should grab next.

- DMM Wall nuts, #1-11
- DMM Torque Hex Set
- Black Diamond Wired Hex Set #4-10
- Black Diamond Stopper Set #4-13
- Wild Country Rock Wire Anodized Set # 9-14
- Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes set #3 - #9

I know a lot of duplication in brands, but I live where I cant see the stuff, so I ordered it and will return what I dont want.

I also got two BD X4 .75's for $39 each brand new.

I was thinking of adding the DMM offsets as well since they are on sale at BC right now.

So what should I keep, what should I return and what should I buy next?

Also what carabiners and slings should I be looking at?

Thanks!

Ryan Swanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
Kyle Tarry wrote: Sell all of the hexes, and all but one set of nuts.  

Nooooooooooooooooooooo!


I love my torque nuts out at smith!  A double set of cams from fingers (metolius #1 or BD #.4) to a BD #3, with one #4 is enough for just about everything cam wise.  A set of DMM offset nuts will make the front of your trousers fit a little tighter too.
Ryan Swanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
Sam Striano wrote: 

I was thinking of adding the DMM offsets as well since they are on sale at BC right now.

Also what carabiners and slings should I be looking at?

I can't recommend those nuts enough.  I might have to pick up another set.  


I use light biners and single length 10mm dyneema slings.  I only carry one double length on rare occasions.  I haven't found the longer sling needed.  Alpine routes would be a different story.

Did I mention you should get offset nuts?
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,107

your going to return what you don't want?  i am interested to see how that goes....

JD · · Vanlifer · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 95

Def get the DMM offsets

And keep the cowbells!

grog m aka Greg McKee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Universal starter trad rack:
Doubles cams of your choice (I love my BD C4s) from 0.3-3 and 1 #4
1 full set of nuts

Sam Striano · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
slim wrote: your going to return what you don't want?  i am interested to see how that goes....

BLACK DIAMOND RETURN POLICY
Within 60 days of purchase: Full refund less shipping charges (if applicable)
After 60 days of purchase: Full merchandise credit (gift card)
Please return items in brand new, unused condition, with all hang tags and packaging. Original order shipping charges, if applicable, are not refundable on correctly shipped orders.

https://www.backcountry.com/sc/returnguarantee
Sam Striano · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
OrganicChemistry wrote: Def get the DMM offsets

And keep the cowbells!

What cowbells? The DMM's, the BD's or the WC's?


I like the DMM's from the look and the WC's. The BD hexes seem the least best option.
Tapawingo Markey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75
slim wrote: your going to return what you don't want?  i am interested to see how that goes....

Second that Sam, I'm not aware of any retailer that will accept returned hardware or ropes/slings regardless of if they're brand new or not. You might want to rethink your plan.

Sam Striano · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Tapawingo Markey wrote:

Second that Sam, I'm not aware of any retailer that will accept returned hardware or ropes/slings regardless of if they're brand new or not. You might want to rethink your plan.

Both Black Diamond and Backcountry.com, according to their return policy, state you can return unused items for a full refund.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
Sam Striano wrote:

Both Black Diamond and Backcountry.com, according to their return policy, state you can return unused items for a full refund.

Generally speaking, that policy doesn't apply to PPE. As a BD retailer, I'm not allowed to accept returns of PPE once it leaves the building as part of my retailer agreement.

We could be wrong of course, and maybe back country has a way around that rule, but that's been a pretty standard rule for PPE for at least as long as I've been climbing (16 years)
Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456
Sam Striano wrote: - DMM Wall nuts, #1-11 - return
- DMM Torque Hex Set - return
- Black Diamond Wired Hex Set #4-10 - return
- Black Diamond Stopper Set #4-13 - return
- Wild Country Rock Wire Anodized Set # 9-14 - keep
- Wild Country Rockcentric Hexes set #3 - #9 - return

And get:
- two sets of these:
DMM alloy offsets #7-11
- doubles of DMM brass offsets #5-6
- two sets of Metolius Ultralight Cams #1-7 and a single #8 (buy local!)
I live and climb here and this is what I'd recommend. Only keep the Hexs if you want to play and learn about them (which is good), but I haven't carried any of them for the last twenty years.
fallingmonkey · · The West · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

All you need is a double rack of cams and a set of nuts preferably DMM offsets. Dont waste your time on hexes. If you can only afford a single rack (.3 - 3) just get that plus a set of nuts.

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456
flyingmonkey wrote: All you need is a double rack of cams and a set of nuts preferably DMM offsets. Dont waste your time on hexes. If you can only afford a single rack (.3 - 3) just get that plus a set of nuts.
Around here you really want two sets of DMM offsets.
Sam Striano · · Salem, OR · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Healyje wrote: I live and climb here and this is what I'd recommend. Only keep the Hexs if you want to play and learn about them (which is good), but I haven't carried any of them for the last twenty years.

So only keep the Wild Country rocks? Then buy cams? No wallnuts? Just the offsets?

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456

Yes, just the Rocks, skip the wallnuts (unless you must, but not really a necessity around here), especially get the two offset sets, and definitely get the cams (you could start with a single set, but you don't seem pressed for resources).

JD · · Vanlifer · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 95

Keep the DMM torque hexes and learn to use them knowing eventually you'll never carry them as you have more cams.
More than one set of hexes is excessive when you could have two or three sets of offset nuts and regular nuts.

Nolan Yahok · · Carbondale, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 0
John Wilder wrote:

Generally speaking, that policy doesn't apply to PPE. As a BD retailer, I'm not allowed to accept returns of PPE once it leaves the building as part of my retailer agreement.

We could be wrong of course, and maybe back country has a way around that rule, but that's been a pretty standard rule for PPE for at least as long as I've been climbing (16 years)

Just returned a harness and carabiner to BC for a full refund no more than 3 hrs ago. I was pleasantly surprised as well. Granted they were all brand new with tags still

Buck Rio · · MN · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

I have never climbed in the PacNW, but a standard rack for me is:

BD Stopper #4-#11
DMM Offsets #7-#11
DMM Torque, don't know the number, there are 4 of them. Replaced all of my BD hexes with these 4
BD C4 Purple .5 to Silver #4, doubles in Red/Yellow/Blue. I inherited a big green #6, but it stays home most of the time.
Fixe Alien green/yellow/blue
Some mixed brass nuts (DMM/BD), I really don't place these much, where I climb it is mostly hands and bigger.

Of all of that, you can absolutely get whatever brand you want. But a rack of nuts, small brass nuts and a bunch of SLCD's will let you climb anywhere. I really like the offset DMM nuts as a specialty piece, they are sometimes the mental insurance I need.

Oh, and I rack all the cams on CAMP Nano 22 biners, and the Torque nuts(they don't need a draw) on Petzl Spirit biners.

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0
Nolan Yahok wrote:

Just returned a harness and carabiner to BC for a full refund no more than 3 hrs ago. I was pleasantly surprised as well. Granted they were all brand new with tags still

So are they putting returned goods back out for sale?

Brock B. · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 191
flyingmonkey wrote: All you need is a double rack of cams and a set of nuts preferably DMM offsets. Dont waste your time on hexes. If you can only afford a single rack (.3 - 3) just get that plus a set of nuts.

This guy nailed it. I've never personally felt the need for two sets of DMM offsets so I'd recommend starting with one and going from there.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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