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Moderate Eldo Grade IV link-ups?


Original Post
Steve R. · · NY, NY · Joined May 2013 · Points: 31

Hi,

Can anyone suggest some moderate (5.4-5.8) grade IV link-ups at eldo?

Thanks,

Steve

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 877

Long John. Scramble down backside to Ruper. Do vertigo raps. Run up to Rewritten. 17 pitches or so.

Or start with Anthill to vertigo raps.

These would be best if you know the back door to approach Ruper.

Steve R. · · NY, NY · Joined May 2013 · Points: 31

Thanks Greg! Much appreciated.

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

Greg, 17 pitches?  You can do long John in 3, Ruper is 5 and rewritten in 4 and I still don't think that would really be a true grade IV.  The difficulty isn't hard enough to be a grade 4.  Royal arches in Yosemite is at least 15 pitches and is only a grade 3.  Your itinerary is a fun day but not a grade IV.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 877

Well, by the old guidebooks long John was 4, Ruper was 6 and rewritten 6. So 16. But thanks for being anal retentive.  Of course one could link pitches. But if 5.8 is at ones limit it would be a fairly long day. Grade IV? Who’s to say.

 You could make your own suggestion.

Steve R. · · NY, NY · Joined May 2013 · Points: 31

Thanks Mydans. I understand climbing grades are quite relative (and controversial)--including minimal difficulty. That said, I think the link-up described by Greg, regardless of the number of pitches, may be "A full day of technical climbing" for a 5.8 leader unfamiliar with area and onsiting the climb. I'm not looking to prove anything here, just want to maximize a single day at eldo.

fossana · · leeds, ut · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 13,231

Not Eldo, but close: Gerry Roach's Top 10 Flatirons Classics (5.7).

Garth Sundem · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 15

Or run up and down Wind Tower all day via goodies like Calypso, Reggae, Tigger, the Bomb, Wind Ridge, West Overhang, etc. While climbing, watch across the road for that unlikely break in the crowds that would allow you to scramble up Bastille Crack. But Greg D's suggestion is probably more interesting and aesthetic.

Don Ferris III · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

My favorite moderate link-up day in Eldo is what I like to refer to as "Eldo Nose Day".  32 guide book pitches covering most of the formations in the canyon.

It goes as follows:

Bastille Crack (5 pitches)
Ruper (6 pitches)
Yellow Spur (6 pitches)
Rewritten (6 pitches)
Gambit (5 pitches)
Wind Ridge (4 pitches)

In reality you only do 10 actual pitches with just a touch of simul-climbing with a 60m rope. Added bonus is all the gear that's needed is a single rack of cams and 10 draws.

I thought it would be cool to add in Heavy Weather on the Peanuts Wall, Handcracker Direct on the West Ridge, and Over and Out on Rincon which would make it so you climbed every main formation in the canyon and an additional 12 guidebook pitches but it's a good bit more hiking and I haven't got around to it yet.

Mydans · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 70

Hey Greg. I'm not trying to be anal retentive but the classic definitions of grade III, IV, and V routes factor in both length and difficulty and the time it would take a competent party to complete them. For example the first flatiron and moonlight buttress in Zion are roughly the same length but the first flatiron is a grade 2 because even though its long its fairly easy and a competent party can do the route in a half day where as moonlight is a grade V and takes most parties all day or even 2 days.  The day you described in Eldo is awesome, I've done it or some variation of it a bunch of times but it isn't a grade IV.

aclayden · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 90

Lol, some of the recommendations are definitely more for seasoned eldo veterans climbing at a 5.11 level who want to cover a lot of moderate ground.

My recommendation is to review the classic multi-pitch climbs within your ability and prioritize what looks most interesting to you. It's hard to beat Ruper for my money. Get an early start, especially if you're going to be there on the weekend. Hit your target climb, then see how much day you have to work with and pick another or combine a few of the great 1-2 pitch climbs.

Kirtis Courkamp · · Golden · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 378

for something a little harder but still moderate. T2 the 5.9 variations that keeps it's 5.9 the whole way + rupper and  Alice in bucket lands  If you still have time your can climb the Italian arette  + body tremors  a full days worth of 5.9 climbing

T G · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 51
aclayden wrote: Lol, some of the recommendations are definitely more for seasoned eldo veterans climbing at a 5.11 level 

Um, no. Of the suggestions offered only Yellow Spur has sections that are a bit spicy, but none of them remotely require 5.11 climbing skills.

aclayden · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 90
T G wrote:

Um, no. Of the suggestions offered only Yellow Spur has sections that are a bit spicy, but none of them remotely require 5.11 climbing skills.

Reading comprehension. I'd like to see a 5.8-5.9 climber combine all the climb's in Don's list in a day. My point is that for someone who is at their max comfort level on Ruper or on Yellow Spur, they are not likely to tag 5-6 multi-pitch climbs of that difficulty in eldo in a single day, using a rack with a single set of cams and nuts. Someone who has climbed a bunch in Eldo, is familiar with the typical gear options and the rock, and who climbs much higher at their top end than 5.8 could feasibly do such a link up.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 877

We are all very grateful MP has a guardian of the sacred Roman numerals. 

Steve R. · · NY, NY · Joined May 2013 · Points: 31

Thanks for all the great posts!

As an aside, I like to, in general,  define a Grade IV as 10-12hr of technical (pitched out) 5th class climbing where each pitch takes ~40min on average. i.e.--15-18 pitches.

That said, to each his/her own!

Patrik · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30

If you have "Ruper" on your list, you can do "Slimy Spoon" (5.8) as a start adding two pitches without any additional walking.

Erika Bannon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 20

A link up I think is super fun link up - Handcracker* walk over and hop on what's free as you are about level with Rewritten/Yellow Spur. If you do Rewritten or Great Zot you can then hike over to Gambit after doing only part of the descent. (*yes technically 5.10a but really easier then a lot of 9s in Eldo and well protected not suggesting it should be downgraded just watch out for those 9s)

I thought it would be cool to then hike down to do a Bastille to Peanuts to Heavy Weather to get a peak to peak type thing in Eldo of moderates but I don't know if I am fast enough. Would be fun to try. :)

Also I recommend against the T2 5.9 pitches, if you are not into scary. While they have some really nice climbing on them I got super scared leading them. I felt sand bagged.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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