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Accident(s) at the Leap Sunday May 13th


Original Post
M. Morley · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 6,600

We were climbing yesterday at Phantom Spires and heard sirens (assuming ambulance) mid-day. Later saw a CHP helicopter land at least twice in the meadow across the road from Strawberry Station. We heard that someone had decked on The Line, but he was not seriously injured. There may have been another accident/rescue later that afternoon. Anyway, hope the injured parties are okay!

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,450

Ugh.  Someone decks off the Line every summer. Hope they are ok!

M. Morley · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 6,600
caughtinside wrote: Ugh.  Someone decks off the Line every summer.

So true.

Martin K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

I was climbing on East Wall that day. Saw a helicopter do a pickup (I think?) near The Line and then land somewhere near the lodge. I also saw around a dozen rescuers on the trail, but it looked like they just left again without being needed. The helicopter strangely came back several times throughout, always landing in the same spot near the highway. Not sure what that was about.

M Hostetler · · Oakland, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
caughtinside wrote: Ugh.  Someone decks off the Line every summer. Hope they are ok!

Why is the Line so prone to decking accidents?

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
M Hostetler wrote:

Why is the Line so prone to decking accidents?

crux is low on the first pitch, gear is a bit finicky, feet are slick. It also gets climbed a huge amount, so copious "shots on goal" so to speak. 

Only, Locals · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,150

This climb is likely a good candidate for a bolt down low.

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 2
Locals Only wrote: This climb is likely a good candidate for a bolt down low.

Yeah, might not be a bad idea. As other have noted, there seems to be multiple people every season who deck on this thing. 

Peter Foster · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 105
Locals Only wrote: This climb is likely a good candidate for a bolt down low.

Is the pro that bad? do people often fall at the crux WITHOUT decking? or do people usually deck when they fall?
imo, if it's serious for the grade it should have a pg-13/R rating (no bolt) and if its not serious... it's fine just how it is?

Scoop Norris · · Truckee · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 45

As I recall, the low down crux can be protected with two small cams, blue metolius.  If bolts are going to be added to the Leap, I am sure we can come up with lots of scary moves on lots of routes. How about Bear's Reach? Fantasia? You can deck off those easier than The Line. But then people have been climbing these routes for nearly 50 years.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Its fine just how it is but that doesn't mean it isn't serious.

Its one of those old dilemmas.

Originally led on pins of course and the pro was bomber. IIRC there was a fixed pin when I first led it, then a broken off stub last I saw...

Pin scars made it easier, undoubtedly it would've been 5.10 by modern standards when first put up.

But the last highest pro is a stopper in a lock that if you fill it makes it pretty stiff....and not the best placement ever......

Falling off just past the crux has been a near free solo for decades. Caveat Climper.

Kevin Mokracek · · Burbank · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 215
Locals Only wrote: This climb is likely a good candidate for a bolt down low.

Yep that pesky top top bottom crack is sooooo hard to protect.

Linda R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Guys, I need your advise, how do you stay in touch with each other, cause cellphones not always work in Mountains?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Linda R wrote: Guys, I need your advise, how do you stay in touch with each other, cause cellphones not always work in Mountains?

What?

wcayler · · Norther CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 10

People get on this climb often over their head because I think they think the gear will be straight forward. The gear at the crux is totally bomber if you take the time to place good gear. I remember a #1 before the crux and a small cam pertecting the moves of the crux. I was a first responder on this route a couple years back, it wasn't a fun weekend. I don't think that a bolt should be added, but maybe a pg13 rating for the people that haven't gotten their mileage in yet, but the climb really isn't even pg13...

Only, Locals · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,150
wcayler wrote: People get on this climb often over their head because I think they think the gear will be straight forward. The gear at the crux is totally bomber if you take the time to place good gear. 

This might be a solution then, since this often happens that the gear is actually good IF you know where to put it, or where the crux is.  


Maybe a non-toxic paint, or something hi-visibility, warning the climber that the crux is coming in like 5 feet so they know to MAKE SURE to get good gear in?
Peter Foster · · Davis, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 105

I have to assume Burchy was trolling to begin with, but I'm concerned people will actually take his suggestion for a bolt seriously...

M. Morley · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 6,600
Locals Only wrote:

Maybe a non-toxic paint, or something hi-visibility, warning the climber that the crux is coming in like 5 feet so they know to MAKE SURE to get good gear in?

Only, Locals · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,150

I'm dead serious.  I know that only locals climb at the leap, and those are really the only folks I care about.

benkraft Kraft · · San Francisco, California · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 10

I heard the dude below me deck when I was on The Line. As far as I could tell he'd solo'd up the first 10 feet of easy climbing without placing any gear and either failed to place a piece when it got steep or placed a bad one that blew. There's good gear towards the end of the easy climbing that should keep you off the ground and gear that looks like it should hold in the "crux" but I got the feeling this guy was pretty new to trad and messed it up. At least he seemed totally fine.

Personally I'd support burch's sarcastic suggestion and add the unnecessary bolt (next to the probably bomber gear) because there's been multiple life altering injuries a year at this spot. Wouldn't change the climb much for experienced folks because the gear here just isn't that hard to find...

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,470

Why put a bolt in? Find an old style piton and hammer that shit in there.

The old guard will not be offended, as it will return the route to its FA condition with the rusty pins.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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