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Sportiva Genius sizing versus Miura (lace up)


Original Post
Josh Cook · · Tivat · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 3,288

Can any of you guys comment on the Genius sizing compared to the Miura (lace up)? I wear 42 Miuras; should I expect 42 Geniuses to fit the same? Is the Genius good for a wide foot?

I unfortunately have to order online and can't try them on because of where I live.

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 105

I have Miura laces and VS in size 43 and that gives me a performance-but-not painful fit. As another data point since they are similar to the Genius, I have Futuras in 42.5 and those are somewhat painful but still usable. I picked up a pair of 42.5 Genius and they are agony. Even just putting them on and not tightening the laces, they are painful. Way, WAY tighter than my 42 Skwamas or 42 Maverinks. I climbed one short route in them and immediately tossed them in the back of the closet (need to get around to selling them...). I dunno if I just got a wonky pair or if they really do run super small.

Josh Cook · · Tivat · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 3,288

Thanks for the tip, Noah. Sounds like they might not be the best to order online then if the sizing is so different from the Miuras.

Brian Boyd · · Kowloon, Hong Kong · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 3,540

I have 43 miura lace-ups in both mens and womens styles.  Brand new 43s are always uncomfortable, but get better quickly.  bought a 43 genius mail order, total misery.  Wore them at my desk, watched tv in them, and stuffed them with a wooden shoe form in between.  Still miserable.  Bought a second genius 43.5, did the tv/desk/stretchy thing for about a month before wearing them to climb.  Did one pitch outside and my feet were in agony for the rest of the day.  I am apparently not genius materials.

Josh Cook · · Tivat · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 3,288

Thanks, Brian. I might just stick with what I know and only order the Miuras then. The Geniuses look great but not worth the money if they don't fit right. Was part of the discomfort a wide-foot issue? I like the Muiras because they accommodate my wide feet well. Perhaps the Geniuses are for a narrower foot. 

Brian Boyd · · Kowloon, Hong Kong · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 3,540

The genius felt much tighter -- toenails digging in to me to the point where I had to tape.  Visually, when I compare the genius and the Miura, the genius actually looks wider.  The genius is a cool shoe and I have friends who love them.  Not for me, though.  

Brendan Koch · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 0

The Genius is actually built on La Sportivas widest last: PD 85. Miura’s last is significantly narrower. The Genius loosens up quite a bit after a few pitches. What makes them so tight (and the laces almost superfluous) is the neoprene sock that covers the top of your foot. It’s sewn so high on both side, unlike the futura and katana lace, which both have the same neoprene “sock”, but have a lateral cutaway, allowing you to ease your foot in much easier. If you downsize them significantly they are almost impossible to get on, as opposed to a laceup like the testarossa, where you can basically open up the whole shoe to get your foot in. Obviously it’s all about fit, and if it doesn’t fit you, and is causing you to think about your foot pain whilst climbing , don’t keep em. I wear a 44 in the Miura lace and a 43.5 in the Genius.

Josh Cook · · Tivat · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 3,288

Great beta, Brendan. Much appreciated. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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