Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

BD / Joe Kinder / ???


Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
ViperScale . wrote:

Speed climbing isn't easy however the majority of climbers don't like / do it. That doesn't mean that the rest of the world who is watching it won't like it. It will make more sense to most non-climbers than sport or bouldering. Biggest problem with it is they do the same climb over and over again. Why don't think just give every climber 30mins to practice on it and than say go get up as fast as you can. Noone really wants to climb the same route 100 times a day to get faster.

I'm with you about most climbers not finding it meaningful. But the route is standardized across all speed climbing comps for the same reason that all Olympic hurdles are set the same height and distance apart, etc. The people who are into speed climbing are REALLY into it. My gym has one of the few speed walls in California and people travel from all over to train on it.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Fehim Hasecic wrote:

Curling has more pazzazz than climbing, spectator wise

I think you greatly underestimate where futuristic course setting is going to take competition climbing.

Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

I think you greatly underestimate where futuristic course setting is going to take competition climbing.

Outside onto real rock?
Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

I think you greatly underestimate where futuristic course setting is going to take competition climbing.

I think you're right, Tut. The Ninja Warrior world and rock climbing will move closer together.

Harumpfster Boondoggle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Señor Arroz wrote:

I think you're right, Tut. The Ninja Warrior world and rock climbing will move closer together.

^^^^This.


More like purely gymnastic moves and more dynamic like modern course setting for bouldering but taken even farther.

Also, the camera angles you are starting to see (through holes for camera men through the climbing wall) will make it easier to capture whats going on and make it easier to understand to the layman.

The Summer Games suffer from a lack of excitement like the Winter Games have....Climbing (maybe not so much as we know it today) will add a lot of zing in time to the event.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Nate Tastic wrote: Outside onto real rock?

Already has been  done. Arco in the late 80's.

Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10
Marc801 C wrote:

Already has been  done. Arco in the late 80's.

I hope they bring that back. Then again, on second thought, keep it all in the gym.
ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240
Señor Arroz wrote:

I'm with you about most climbers not finding it meaningful. But the route is standardized across all speed climbing comps for the same reason that all Olympic hurdles are set the same height and distance apart, etc. The people who are into speed climbing are REALLY into it. My gym has one of the few speed walls in California and people travel from all over to train on it.

I understand that but it doesn't fit in with the rest of rock climbing.... I have no problem with them putting it in if they want but don't make sport / bouldering scores combine with speed when the vast majority of people who would be in the Olympics would not even touch it without the Olympics. 

If you had to pass a sport, bouldering, and speed comp to get into the Olympics would we even have a single person competing? Speed people are going to get killed in boulder / sport where someone has to figure out how to climb a 5.13+ route on the fly.
Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
ViperScale . wrote:

I understand that but it doesn't fit in with the rest of rock climbing.... I have no problem with them putting it in if they want but don't make sport / bouldering scores combine with speed when the vast majority of people who would be in the Olympics would not even touch it without the Olympics. 

If you had to pass a sport, bouldering, and speed comp to get into the Olympics would we even have a single person competing? Speed people are going to get killed in boulder / sport where someone has to figure out how to climb a 5.13+ route on the fly.

I think you're going to be hugely surprised when the Olympics roll around. Do you actually think that people won't be training, intensively, in all 3 disciplines for the next 4 years?

Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
ViperScale . wrote:

I understand that but it doesn't fit in with the rest of rock climbing.... I have no problem with them putting it in if they want but don't make sport / bouldering scores combine with speed when the vast majority of people who would be in the Olympics would not even touch it without the Olympics. 

If you had to pass a sport, bouldering, and speed comp to get into the Olympics would we even have a single person competing? Speed people are going to get killed in boulder / sport where someone has to figure out how to climb a 5.13+ route on the fly.

I'm not disagreeing with you that a combined medal requiring good scores in all 3 disciplines isn't ideal. But think about something like the decathlon. It's a combined medal across 10 disciplines. The person who wins it is rarely the best at any one of those events. But it means a lot.

I think if climbing is included in future Olympics past this one we'll see medals for each discipline too. But for now, it is what it is. I doubt anyone who is invited is going to boycott because of the format. 

ViperScale . · · McMurdo Station, AQ · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 240
Marc801 C wrote:

I think you're going to be hugely surprised when the Olympics roll around. Do you actually think that people won't be training, intensively, in all 3 disciplines for the next 4 years?

I know they will be at least I know of one world champion personally that has been working in speed even though he is absolutely the worst at speed. He is one of the guys who likes to hang out right before the crux for a few mins on 5.14+ climbs.

J Squared · · santa barbara, CA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

how long will it be before the Olympic minds misinterpret "psicobloc" and push for some kind of full contact climbing battle.

Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
J Squared wrote: how long will it be before the Olympic minds misinterpret "psicobloc" and push for some kind of full contact climbing battle.

We can only hope!

Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10

Here's an interesting article on speed climbing and speed walls.

http://www.climbingbusinessjournal.com/speed-walls-the-fastest-trend/​​​

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Getting back to the issue at hand -

Joe Kinder has been made an example of, but Georgie Abel, a climber and writer, theorized in an article on Medium that this is just one crack in an entire system that afflicts climbing culture. “What becomes important is not that a 38-year-old man created a fake Instagram in order to bully at least two young women, but the fact that he felt supported in doing so,” she wrote. “Climbing culture is the thing that gave him that support.” Culturally sanctioned misogyny isn’t limited to climbing or even the outdoor industry, of course. It seeps through all aspects of our culture. But when an incident like this stirs up so much conversation, we in the outdoor community should see it as an opportunity to lead the way in uprooting it. 

Read more at Outside Magazine
Christian · · Casa do Cacete · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 1,470

So every individual quirk of character (like Juniper Joe's mildly sadistic sense of humor) must be shoehorned into a systemic social justice narrative?

It gets pretty tiresome sometimes.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Christian wrote: So every individual quirk of character (like Juniper Joe's mildly sadistic sense of humor) must be shoehorned into a systemic social justice narrative?

It gets pretty tiresome sometimes.

Should there be "quid pro quo" approach ? 

- you bolt 5.12c, you can bully on social media
- you bolt 5.13c, you can drop kick a puppy
- you bolt 5.15c, you can climb in neon green short shorts

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535
Christian wrote: So every individual quirk of character (like Juniper Joe's mildly sadistic sense of humor) must be shoehorned into a systemic social justice narrative?

It gets pretty tiresome sometimes.

No man, the lesson here is - be respectful and kind to your fellow humans. It's pretty much that easy.

Señor Arroz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 10
Christian wrote: So every individual quirk of character (like Juniper Joe's mildly sadistic sense of humor) must be shoehorned into a systemic social justice narrative?

It gets pretty tiresome sometimes.

That really seems to be your interpretation. I don't see Joe Kinder's bullying in a systemic narrative. I see it in an age-old story of people hiding their own insecurities by picking on others. And the most chickenshit form of that is anonymous bullying. He seems to have learned and taken responsibility. See, the system works!

Nate Tastic · · Sutter Creek · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 10
Culturally sanctioned misogyny
Which one of you clowns approved this sanction? For the record, I voted no at the patriarch meeting. 
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Post a Reply to "BD / Joe Kinder / ???"
in the General Climbing

This topic is locked and closed to new replies.