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Top rope solo

Original Post
Kevin Cottle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

I am looking at top rope soloing using a micro traxion on the main line and on my back up using pre tied figure 8 bights to clip into on the way up. I figure I would use 8mm cord girth hitched to the harness and locking carabiner. Once I reach the top and clip into the back up line, I am thinking to undo the micro traxion and use an atc on the main line to rappel.

What are your thoughts on this?
Is it safe?
Is there a better way?

Thank you

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 650

That way sounds plenty safe. But honestly, the figure 8s sounds like such a pain. You want to climb safely but also have fun, right? Clipping and unclipping knots all day would suck a decent amount of the fun out for me and kill the flow.

I would just get a second device, make sure it won’t be interfering with the first, and call it good. I rig one so it sits up at my chest to accomplish this. If you want to tie an overhand in one of the ropes once you are off the ground, to ensure you wouldn’t deck if both devices decide to go zipping down the rope without grabbing, you could do that as well, although I find it unnecessary. And let’s be honest, the devices might explode after careening however many feet down the rope and smashing into the knot anyway.

Also, using a piece of lightweight shock cord (bungee stuff like in a tent pole) to keep your device upright and oriented is a neat trick that I like to employ. Prevents cross loading and mini TRsolo whips. Very nice

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541
Kevin Cottle wrote: caribeaners

And the award for most egregious misspelling of the word goes to... 

Or you're referring to Caribbean immigrants in a very roundabout way.

Search function noob!
Brad MacArthur · · Bishop, CA · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 120

I've been doing this for a few months now and use a micro traxion with back up ascender using a single fixed line.  lots if information here.   petzl.com/en/Sport/General-…

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 27,827

Hang a weight a few ft above the ground (I use a 1 pint  =  1 lb,  water btl)  from the end of the "main" line.  This helps the ascender(s) slide up more easily, otherwise the first 40-50 ft you have to slide them up "manually" holding the rope with one hand.

I agree with the climber who said "forget the back-up rope and knots. *Unless there's some danger of the main rope cutting, like it runs over a sharp edge).   Just use 2 ascenders.  

Kevin Cottle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Thank you for the input and ideas. Im new to this app and cant find the search option. I was originally thinking the knots becuase it seemed easier, but you guys gave me new ideas. 

JohnnyG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 10

I follow the two rope method from Petzl. Definitely worth it to have two devices. Spend some time reading the petzl literature. They have several webpages linked to page beantown posted.

The most likely place you will screw up and kill yourself is in the transitions. (going from climbing to rappelling or going from rappelling to climbing). So many transitions that's it's easy to forget to double check everything when busting out lap after lap.

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3

Use two devices. Once you get on anything that's hard for you, you're really going to hate dealing with clipping knots.

Ģnöfudør Ðrænk · · In the vicinity of 43 deg l… · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 2
JohnnyG wrote: I follow the two rope method from Petzl.....
The most likely place you will screw up and kill yourself is in the transitions. (going from climbing to rappelling or going from rappelling to climbing). So many transitions that's it's easy to forget to double check everything when busting out lap after lap.

2nd that.    I use two devices on two separate lines - not because I'm afraid of the system failing but because I'm afraid of my own complacency in transition.  Maybe one in every x hundred times I forget to attach one of the devices before climbing.

Rew Exo · · Mammoth Lakes / Bishop · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 57

I started out clipping alpine butterflies on a second line, but found it annoying. Now I use a micro traxion (held up to my chest with a sling) and an ascender on a single line.

F Loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 808

The knots are a silly idea in my eyes. If you can only set up a single line, then set up something that runs smooth and have a backup. If you weight the rope, do not overweight the rope or it will be a PITA. If you put two eights on a bight to your anchor near the halfway point in your rope you have a safe redundant double rope system, that like you said, you can switch to your descent tool easily. If you get stuck on an overhang and have to ascend or descend make sure you are knowledgeable enough on the process before you encounter it (don't rely on a sling you don't carry).
+1 to the chest rig keeping the device orientated and reducing chances of high FF.
You have to remember that at the top of your route you will have little rope left and it will not be a soft catch if you mess up and pull slack up to attach your ATC then fall.
If you are still testing out your system you need to climb where someone will find you if your hurt bad.
Do not use something that can severely damage the rope as your primary.
Use different systems for different areas.
Like others have stated, read the forums thoroughly.

-mn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 30

So much has been said about this...
Single ascender held upright with a chest harness or a sling around your neck, duck tape biner to device to prevent cross loading.
Hundreds of pitches and never had a problem. Figure out all the tricks as you go.
Only time I back it up is when cruxing at/beyond my limit with less than 10-15 feet to anchors, very little rope stretch. Traversing pitches/sections require different tactics, but I usually just stick to vertical stuff.  

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Kevin Cottle wrote: I am looking at top rope soloing using a micro traxion on the main line and on my back up using pre tied figure 8 bights to clip into on the way up. I figure I would use 8mm cord girth hitched to the harness and locking carabiner. Once I reach the top and clip into the back up line, I am thinking to undo the micro traxion and use an atc on the main line to rappel.

What are your thoughts on this?
Is it safe?
Is there a better way?

Thank you

Climbing is not safe.

Aunt Patty · · Fryeburg, ME · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 116
Ryan Swanson wrote: 

Carry a prussik and double length sling for ascending if I have to.  I found myself hanging in space once.  It was great.

We have similar methods, and although everything in your post is grand, i wish i thought about this piece of info before heading out on my first rope solo adventures.

jay steinke · · Duluth, Mn · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 20
-mn wrote: So much has been said about this...
Single ascender held upright with a chest harness or a sling around your neck, duck tape biner to device to prevent cross loading.
Hundreds of pitches and never had a problem. Figure out all the tricks as you go.
Only time I back it up is when cruxing at/beyond my limit with less than 10-15 feet to anchors, very little rope stretch. Traversing pitches/sections require different tactics, but I usually just stick to vertical stuff.  
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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