Carabiner wore out after one day of top rope?

climber pat wrote:

I suspect that the quest for lighter gear is leading to the use of a softer grade of aluminum.

As the hardness of aluminium (along with most metals) is more or less directly related to it´s strength this is highly unlikely. There are different alloys with different wear properties however and the choice which the manufacturer uses will depend on price, availability and suitability for the processes involved making the part, you get what you pay for as usual.

Jim Titt wrote:

As the hardness of aluminium (along with most metals) is more or less directly related to it´s strength this is highly unlikely. There are different alloys with different wear properties however and the choice which the manufacturer uses will depend on price, availability and suitability for the processes involved making the part, you get what you pay for as usual.

I think I'm with Jim on this. No, I don't have numbers to back it up. But my oldest BD biner feels like its almost as heavy as steel. It's not, of course, but it IS a denser aluminum alloy.

Jim Titt wrote:

As the hardness of aluminium (along with most metals) is more or less directly related to it´s strength this is highly unlikely. There are different alloys with different wear properties however and the choice which the manufacturer uses will depend on price, availability and suitability for the processes involved making the part, you get what you pay for as usual.

So, do you have a theory why modern aluminum carabiners wear so much quicker than aluminum carabiners from 25+ years ago?

John Wilder wrote: Imho, you shouldn't use I-beam carabiners for top roping or for primary rappelling carabiners. They wear down super fast. Round stock is better.

This does look like mostly anodization wear, but i wouldn't be surprised to see wear on the sides on that carabiner already.

That actually makes sense. 

So what is a good application of this locker?

You’d probably not want belay to with it using a tube style device for the same reason, right?

Maybe as a master point or clip in biner on the lead?

My only I-beam biners are on draws and cams, they seem to weather fine in that role.

Retire it... and send it to me....

Just the finish coming off, nothing special. But if that is in a day, you need to wash your rope.

I actually got some new carabiners and trying to wear them in to not look like a newb...

​Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Screw Carabiner​

Say hello to your new friend

https://www.edelrid.com/us/sports/locking-carabiners/bulletproof-screw.html

Newer, lighter biners wear a lot faster than the older heavier ones. After 10 years I have my old heavy Clog locking D's to my friend that aid climbs, they still had tons of life left in them.

It looks like you might have significant sand at your climbing crags. I highly recommend you get some stainless steel lockers to toprope from. After having to replace lockers every six months here we wised up. The steel ones are still going strong two years later. 

I'm not sure what's different with them (other than they're heavy and have a terrible gate opening) but the Omega-Pacific cold forged locking d's and ovals seem to last forever as TR biners without going full steel or those expensive steel inserts. Somehow mine have no grooves and they were among the first gear I ever got ten years ago.

John Wilder wrote: Imho, you shouldn't use I-beam carabiners for top roping or for primary rappelling carabiners. They wear down super fast. Round stock is better.

This does look like mostly anodization wear, but i wouldn't be surprised to see wear on the sides on that carabiner already.

Exactly what I thought. Those fancy new binders are made for saving weight while still offering strength. If all you’re doing is top roping at a Crag, then buy the big burly round stock. And may as well get it in steel. It will last you years

Tim Stich wrote: It looks like you might have significant sand at your climbing crags. I highly recommend you get some stainless steel lockers to toprope from. After having to replace lockers every six months here we wised up. The steel ones are still going strong two years later. 

I think you’re right. I mean the rock is actual sandstone haha and not always good sandstone at that 

Anthony Haamen wrote:

I think you’re right. I mean the rock is actual sandstone haha and not always good sandstone at that 

I had been sure this was a troll, then I saw all the thoughtful reply's, I left a bit of a snarky answer when I saw this hit 2 pages. 

Two things, Rope Bag 'n Tarp,
 An Ikea bag, works in many places.
There is no need to go spend a ton, or any money on something that you need to replace often, to keep your cord more grit-less.

An Ikea bag, that blue thing, is hanging off El Cap

Anthony Haamen wrote:

So I got some new Petzl Attaches recently for top rope anchor use only. Today I set it all up, and after taking the anchor down for the day I noticed that the wear was significant. Like some of the metal was gone already. Ik top rope anchors are one of the fastest ways to wear out a biner, but it seemed REALLY fast. They’re still usable for a while, but I was just surprised. Has anyone else experienced this? Also the rope was a little dirty so this may have played a part.

Use steel bieners if u want them to last longer or use these 

https://www.backcountrygear.com/edelrid-bulletproof-screw.html

For those suggesting the bulletproof biners for top rope: how well do those work for rappelling with an ATC-style device? (Particularly with a DMM Pivot, but I know that's more specific a question than is reasonable). I am considering getting one for rappelling once my current rappel biner is a bit more worn, but I generally prefer more symmetrical carabiners for rappelling and those bulletproof biners are expensive...

LOL 6/10

John Wilder wrote: Imho, you shouldn't use I-beam carabiners for top roping or for primary rappelling carabiners. They wear down super fast. Round stock is better.

This does look like mostly anodization wear, but i wouldn't be surprised to see wear on the sides on that carabiner already.

This

CAN"T CUT THIS

Urban Top Rope anchor, A must for the Great Falls In Paterson NJ. SAFTY 1st

i'm resisting the urge to go dig though the trash,  bail 'biener bin

I try to retire mine around here