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Carabiner wore out after one day of top rope?


climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 241
Wiggle wrote: That's pretty normal wear, especially if there is any sand/grit in the rope.
Though I swear that the karabiners these days are made of softer metal and wear out faster than a decade or so ago. I have 2 Black Diamond HMS krabs, one is about five years old, and has a grove from only moderate use, while the other is nearly twenty years old, has had 3-4 times the use, and shows no sign of wear.
My bet is on 'planned obsolescence' and corporate driven production of climbing gear these days.

I suspect that the quest for lighter gear is leading to the use of a softer grade of aluminum.

Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 490
climber pat wrote:

I suspect that the quest for lighter gear is leading to the use of a softer grade of aluminum.

As the hardness of aluminium (along with most metals) is more or less directly related to it´s strength this is highly unlikely. There are different alloys with different wear properties however and the choice which the manufacturer uses will depend on price, availability and suitability for the processes involved making the part, you get what you pay for as usual.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,810
Jim Titt wrote:

As the hardness of aluminium (along with most metals) is more or less directly related to it´s strength this is highly unlikely. There are different alloys with different wear properties however and the choice which the manufacturer uses will depend on price, availability and suitability for the processes involved making the part, you get what you pay for as usual.

I think I'm with Jim on this. No, I don't have numbers to back it up. But my oldest BD biner feels like its almost as heavy as steel. It's not, of course, but it IS a denser aluminum alloy.

climber pat · · Las Cruces NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 241
Jim Titt wrote:

As the hardness of aluminium (along with most metals) is more or less directly related to it´s strength this is highly unlikely. There are different alloys with different wear properties however and the choice which the manufacturer uses will depend on price, availability and suitability for the processes involved making the part, you get what you pay for as usual.

So, do you have a theory why modern aluminum carabiners wear so much quicker than aluminum carabiners from 25+ years ago?

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,186
John Wilder wrote: Imho, you shouldn't use I-beam carabiners for top roping or for primary rappelling carabiners. They wear down super fast. Round stock is better.

This does look like mostly anodization wear, but i wouldn't be surprised to see wear on the sides on that carabiner already.

That actually makes sense. 

So what is a good application of this locker?

You’d probably not want belay to with it using a tube style device for the same reason, right?

Maybe as a master point or clip in biner on the lead?

My only I-beam biners are on draws and cams, they seem to weather fine in that role.
J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,545

Yeah, I generally don't buy hms i-beams for this reason. I learned about this quirk years ago when doing a carabiner brake rappel with some wc heliums and I burned through them in a single 60m rappel and had to throw them away.

I use them for cams and slings, and master points sometimes, but any rope running stuff I try to stick to round stock or cold forged at a minimum.

J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,545
climber pat wrote:

So, do you have a theory why modern aluminum carabiners wear so much quicker than aluminum carabiners from 25+ years ago?

Hot forging would be my guess. There's alot less metal in them.

Round stocks still do fine.
Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310

Retire it... and send it to me....

Racechinees . · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 0

Just the finish coming off, nothing special. But if that is in a day, you need to wash your rope.

I actually got some new carabiners and trying to wear them in to not look like a newb...

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 456
Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 9,489

Newer, lighter biners wear a lot faster than the older heavier ones. After 10 years I have my old heavy Clog locking D's to my friend that aid climbs, they still had tons of life left in them.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,476

It looks like you might have significant sand at your climbing crags. I highly recommend you get some stainless steel lockers to toprope from. After having to replace lockers every six months here we wised up. The steel ones are still going strong two years later. 

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 840

I'm not sure what's different with them (other than they're heavy and have a terrible gate opening) but the Omega-Pacific cold forged locking d's and ovals seem to last forever as TR biners without going full steel or those expensive steel inserts. Somehow mine have no grooves and they were among the first gear I ever got ten years ago.

Joe Garibay · · Ventura, Ca · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 96
John Wilder wrote: Imho, you shouldn't use I-beam carabiners for top roping or for primary rappelling carabiners. They wear down super fast. Round stock is better.

This does look like mostly anodization wear, but i wouldn't be surprised to see wear on the sides on that carabiner already.

Exactly what I thought. Those fancy new binders are made for saving weight while still offering strength. If all you’re doing is top roping at a Crag, then buy the big burly round stock. And may as well get it in steel. It will last you years

Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 25
Tim Stich wrote: It looks like you might have significant sand at your climbing crags. I highly recommend you get some stainless steel lockers to toprope from. After having to replace lockers every six months here we wised up. The steel ones are still going strong two years later. 

I think you’re right. I mean the rock is actual sandstone haha and not always good sandstone at that 

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,814
Anthony Haamen wrote:

I think you’re right. I mean the rock is actual sandstone haha and not always good sandstone at that 

I had been sure this was a troll, then I saw all the thoughtful reply's, I left a bit of a snarky answer when I saw this hit 2 pages. 

Two things, Rope Bag 'n Tarp,
 An Ikea bag, works in many places.
There is no need to go spend a ton, or any money on something that you need to replace often, to keep your cord more grit-less.

An Ikea bag, that blue thing, is hanging off El Cap
Todd Bruns · · Golden , Colorado · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0
Anthony Haamen wrote:
So I got some new Petzl Attaches recently for top rope anchor use only. Today I set it all up, and after taking the anchor down for the day I noticed that the wear was significant. Like some of the metal was gone already. Ik top rope anchors are one of the fastest ways to wear out a biner, but it seemed REALLY fast. They’re still usable for a while, but I was just surprised. Has anyone else experienced this? Also the rope was a little dirty so this may have played a part.

Use steel bieners if u want them to last longer or use these 

https://www.backcountrygear.com/edelrid-bulletproof-screw.html
David K · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 138

For those suggesting the bulletproof biners for top rope: how well do those work for rappelling with an ATC-style device? (Particularly with a DMM Pivot, but I know that's more specific a question than is reasonable). I am considering getting one for rappelling once my current rappel biner is a bit more worn, but I generally prefer more symmetrical carabiners for rappelling and those bulletproof biners are expensive...

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

LOL 6/10

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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