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Carabiner wore out after one day of top rope?


Original Post
Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 10
So I got some new Petzl Attaches recently for top rope anchor use only. Today I set it all up, and after taking the anchor down for the day I noticed that the wear was significant. Like some of the metal was gone already. Ik top rope anchors are one of the fastest ways to wear out a biner, but it seemed REALLY fast. They’re still usable for a while, but I was just surprised. Has anyone else experienced this? Also the rope was a little dirty so this may have played a part.
Auden Alsop · · Baltimore, MD · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Pics might be helpful?

Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 10
Auden Alsop wrote: Pics might be helpful?

Just posted one!

Roy Suggett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 7,207

Metal or coating color gone?

Sam Miller · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 30

That's just the anodization wearing off. Nothing to worry about. When the 'biner is halfway worn through, then its time to retire. 

Aidan Raviv · · South Pasadena, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 100

Just the paint. Clean your rope and use a rope tarp next time. 

Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 10
Roy Suggett wrote: Metal or coating color gone?

Coating gone for sure, seems like some of the metal too. Hard to tell how much

bttrrtRock Charles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 5

Totally normal.

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,185

If you want your equipment shiny and new, don’t use it. I’d give it a 0.01% chance there’s anything wrong with a new Petzl biner.

But if you need further testing, I’ll forward you my address.

Ben K · · Columbia, MD · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 20

If you have concerns i'll take it off your hands

Tyler Lomprey · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 55

Get some steel lockers and you’ll never see wear and tear 

Wiggle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

That's pretty normal wear, especially if there is any sand/grit in the rope.
Though I swear that the karabiners these days are made of softer metal and wear out faster than a decade or so ago. I have 2 Black Diamond HMS krabs, one is about five years old, and has a grove from only moderate use, while the other is nearly twenty years old, has had 3-4 times the use, and shows no sign of wear.
My bet is on 'planned obsolescence' and corporate driven production of climbing gear these days.

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 405

That carabiner is fine and the anodizing wearing off is expected. If you're set on TRing and are worried about your carabiners, buy some steel carabiners. They usually aren't anodized, and you won't notice any wear, even over extended usage. Heck, I'll trade you steel lockers for your Petzl Spirit lockers if you like.

Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 10
Colonel Mustard wrote: If you want your equipment shiny and new, don’t use it. I’d give it a 0.01% chance there’s anything wrong with a new Petzl biner.

But if you need further testing, I’ll forward you my address.

Lol I like the worn look actually. And yeah I also agree there’s prob nothing wrong. Just wanted some outside opinions, seeing as I haven’t used this particular biner for TR yet. 

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 840

That's not worn at all. But if it really bothers you, replace it with some silver lockers so you won't  see it.

Anthony Haamen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 10
Wiggle wrote: That's pretty normal wear, especially if there is any sand/grit in the rope.
Though I swear that the karabiners these days are made of softer metal and wear out faster than a decade or so ago. I have 2 Black Diamond HMS krabs, one is about five years old, and has a grove from only moderate use, while the other is nearly twenty years old, has had 3-4 times the use, and shows no sign of wear.
My bet is on 'planned obsolescence' and corporate driven production of climbing gear these days.
Gotcha. I appreciate your response, this is what I was wondering. 
rockklimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 0

The anodize is worn off.  This is caused by lots of lowering on a dirty rope.  Especially if you climb on a lot of sandstone.  This is happening to all your belay devices as well.
Wash your rope, use a rope bag and keep your rope out of the dirt and the wear and tear will be much less.  

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,113

I run them to about here:

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,535

Imho, you shouldn't use I-beam carabiners for top roping or for primary rappelling carabiners. They wear down super fast. Round stock is better.

This does look like mostly anodization wear, but i wouldn't be surprised to see wear on the sides on that carabiner already.

Tavish Hansen · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 135
Wiggle wrote: That's pretty normal wear, especially if there is any sand/grit in the rope.
Though I swear that the karabiners these days are made of softer metal and wear out faster than a decade or so ago. I have 2 Black Diamond HMS krabs, one is about five years old, and has a grove from only moderate use, while the other is nearly twenty years old, has had 3-4 times the use, and shows no sign of wear.
My bet is on 'planned obsolescence' and corporate driven production of climbing gear these days.

I had never really thought about this, but now that you point it out the same difference in wear is pretty apparent between my older and newer carabiners.  Interesting...

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 2,795
Jason Todd wrote: I run them to about here:

Petzl's advice is to replace biners when the groove is 1 mm deep.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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