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Smith aid routes


Original Post
Jonathan Croom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 390

Hey all,

Any recommendations for a moderate/serious aid routes at Smith? There are really quite a few listed by Watts. I may do Picnic Lunch (is it open this spring? didn't see it listed on the closure) as a bit of a warm up, and if I'm feeling up for it then check out one of the harder nailing routes.

Has anyone here climbed Journey to Ixtlan or Soft Shoe Ballet? I'd appreciate any comments or advice on either. I've stood under both but wasn't thinking about climbing them at the time so I don't remember much about them. Is the alternate first pitch to Soft Shoe Ballet a big step down in seriousness?

If Picnic Lunch Wall is closed for birds, any other options? I've seen a few A4/A5 seams listed mixed in with hard sport routes, but I'd prefer to get out on something a bit more isolated and longer than 1 pitch.

Jonathan

Perry Norris · · Truckee · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 45

There were great aid routes on Monkey Face in the 70s until they all went free. 

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

Wombat has a few if I recall.  Anything you find on the Kangaroo would be fairly serious given the rock quality.  Picnic lunch wall is open.

Jonathan Croom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 390

Yeah I've (clean) aided most of the Monkey Face cracks, now it's time to free them. Thanks to the pin pounders for the great finger locks.

Thanks for the Marsupial suggestions, I'll check it out. I kinda embrace crappy rock, so sounds like fun*.

And thanks for confirming Picnic Lunch is open. I will probably check those out.

* only interested in type 2 & 3 fun

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50
Jonathan Croom wrote: Yeah I've (clean) aided most of the Monkey Face cracks, now it's time to free them. Thanks to the pin pounders for the great finger locks.

Thanks for the Marsupial suggestions, I'll check it out. I kinda embrace crappy rock, so sounds like fun*.

And thanks for confirming Picnic Lunch is open. I will probably check those out.

* only interested in type 2 & 3 fun

Interested in a first ascent up a big ol pile of shit then?  I know a tower not too far from Smith that is rumored to be unclimbed

Andrew Child · · Santa Clara · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 691
Ryan Swanson wrote:

Interested in a first ascent up a big ol pile of shit then?  I know a tower not too far from Smith that is rumored to be unclimbed

Damn that's pretty massive. Are you willing to share the coordinates?

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

Do you want to go make a bold as shit ascent? There are cracks, but I doubt any pro would hold.  You'd need to drill 8+ inch deep bolts to bestow even the slightest bit of confidence in me.

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
Ryan Swanson wrote:

Interested in a first ascent up a big ol pile of shit then?  I know a tower not too far from Smith that is rumored to be unclimbed

By not too far you mean smack dab in the middle of the park and a few metres off the side of the trail? 

Andrew Child · · Santa Clara · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 691
Ryan Swanson wrote: Do you want to go make a bold as shit ascent? There are cracks, but I doubt any pro would hold.  You'd need to drill 8+ inch deep bolts to bestow even the slightest bit of confidence in me.

Probably not, but I'm still curious. Also I'm not 100% convinced that this isn't just a picture of the monument.

Jonathan Croom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 390

Haha Ship Rock is also on my must do list for this trip, so I'm all ears. Willing to share any info on that pile of choss in the photo?

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

Here's a google maps screenshot.  Not the monument, and not in the park
Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 45
Ryan Swanson wrote:

Here's a google maps screenshot.  Not the monument, and not in the park

Whoops!


I was mistaken
Billcoe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 833

8” bolts don’t work as well at tower town as 5/8 inch drilled angles. When bjornstadt and Dod did the 1st route on eagle claw just down the way, they found that short salewa pointed knife blades driven horizontally into the dirt where there were no cracks worked well.

Remember to have fun and take some long slings to wrap the top so you can rap off.

Ryan Swanson · · Pepedidnothingwrong, freejg · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 50

It’s so dirty there. I low 5th classed up the big tower about 20 feet in a surprisingly solid water grove, wised up, and down climbed before exploring my way into a bad spot. If I was more into aid shenanigans, I’m sure I’d get a choss boner. Have you done anything in that area Bill?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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