Climbing the Nose of El Cap this Spring?

Yo Gang,

I'm still working on my Climb the Nose book, likely printed for 2019, and am always interested in talking to folks before or after they climb the route. If you email me at erik@yosemitebigwall.com, I'm happy to share the text version of the book, and my latest topo.

I put together a survey for Nose climbers:

What is the longest route you have completed in Yosemite before climbing the Nose? The hardest? What’s the longest route you have completed anywhere? The hardest climb anywhere(outside)?

(Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral (5.9+) is probably the best Yosemite climb to test your readiness for the Nose - it is a long day, but if you can do it and still have a decent attitude at the end of the day, the Nose will be great - of course you will need some more skills like jugging, hauling, and aid climbing, but from a toughness perspective the NEB is probably as hard a day as you will ever have on the wall)

How many Grade IVs or Grade Vs did you climb before attempting the Nose your first time?

(Even if you and your partner climb 5.11 trad in your tennis shoes, you should do an overnight climb to see work through the unique logistics / challenges you will face on El Cap - South Face of Washington Column and Southwest Face of Liberty Cap or favorites).

How long did you or do you plan to spend climbing the Nose - car to car (include time fixing pitches)?

(Why rush? Give yourself 5 days car to car, or 7 days home to home, so you have plenty of time to really enjoy it - sleep on the summit and spend a day in the meadow after your climb, basking in the glory)

How much water will you bring per day?

(four liters per person per day, for folks 130 lbs - 190 lbs - lighter folks can get by with three and heavier folks might need more, is the standard)  

Do you plan to bivy on the summit?

(Smart!)

What is the biggest challenge you believe you will face, or believed you would face, before climbing the Nose?

(For most folks it is the approach, as there are three options, the first pitches, and getting established on the wall meaning dealing with other parties, hauling, etc.)

How will the time of year (the season) affect your climb?

(For instance, it is often super windy in the afternoon in the spring, and the days are super short in November)

How many days total will you spend in Yosemite on the trip where you climb the Nose?

Do you have Protraxtion, Mini/Micro traxtion, or just regular pulley to haul with?

(If you're going with a full haul bag for four days the Protrax is worth it)

On a scale of 1 - 10, where 1 is you get very little exercise in your day to day life, and 10 is you do outdoor construction for a living in ninety degree weather, where would you say you’re at with doing physical things outside all day?

Eric, as an aspiring big waller, who's yet to cut his feet on a grade 4 or 5, I would LOVE to get my hands on whatever beta you can supply for the Nose! I've been contemplating all the possibilities and avenues to take for the Nose. Like where to bivy, number of pitches per day, secondary/tertiary plans, how much gear, food/water etc and not having any epics to call YOSAR as a last resort....Aside from onsighting Nutcracker & Center pillar on middle cathedral(with no whips) on my 2nd visit to the Valley, I'm always debating with that inner voice telling me when the time is right to go for it on the SF of WA Column and to prepare for the Nose. I invested in all the aid-gear and after reading Hollywood Hans' book, it lit a big fire of inspiration that doesn't seem unattainable. You've done great things for the rock climbing community and I'm very appreciative of it! 

I am but a simple farmer from Kansas, only climbed a few things over 1000'.

I got 32 hours first try. (Partner had previously climbed it, and I did one practice run to sickle)

I think a Kong "Panic Draw" could be super useful ;)

You got this Colin! Just go for the SF on the Column (ideally with the same partner that you want to climb the Nose with), and you'll be dialed in no time! Email me and I'll get your the text.

Erik Sloan wrote: You got this Colin! Just go for the SF on the Column (ideally with the same partner that you want to climb the Nose with), and you'll be dialed in no time! Email me and I'll get your the text.

Erik, thanks brother! Email sent. I also placed an order for Nose route picture as well.