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Climbing shoe for extra-long big toe


Original Post
Glenn Sweeney · · San Francisco, CA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Hey MP,

Seems I have an enormously long big toe. I’m wearing Anazasi pinks right now, and my big toe (and toenail) takes quite a beating climbing from being jammed into the shoe, while there’s some unwanted room around all of my other toes.

Anyone else deal with this, and have recommendations for a last that may fit my mutant toes better?

Shoe preference - I love everything about my pinks except for my poor big toe.

Kelley Gilleran · · Sacramento, Ca · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,695

I've got a big toe issue with my nail and used to climb in muira lace ups alot.

I like scarpa instinct vs but they also have a lace up. The toe box is roomy but still performs well.

Glenn Sweeney · · San Francisco, CA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Kelley, I've climbed in the Muira VS before - is the toe box on the lace significantly different than the strapped version?

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

It might be a tad narrower.  Also leather, so it will stretch.  I have longer second/third toes, so I have the opposite problem as you and Anasazis fit me beautifully.  Sounds like you need a pointy La Sportiva shoe...have you tried TC Pros or Katanas?

Kelley Gilleran · · Sacramento, Ca · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,695
Glenn Sweeney wrote: Kelley, I've climbed in the Muira VS before - is the toe box on the lace significantly different than the strapped version?

I would say narrower as well. To me it was too cramped width wise in the front point of the shoe. Edged so good though

caesar.salad · · earth · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 75

A friend of mine has the same thing and wears solutions.

Jason Halladay · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 12,203
caesar.salad wrote: A friend of mine has the same thing and wears solutions.

I have very long second toes and Solutions and Skwamas work well for me. The "toe box bump" area on top of these shoes give my toes room to curl up into the top of the toe box. 

Kelley Gilleran · · Sacramento, Ca · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 2,695

For me solutions were too narrow and took a long time to break in. Evolv shamans were awesome in their original design but the thin strap version isn't as comfortable imo.

Glenn Sweeney · · San Francisco, CA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Ted, I tried both the TC pro and the Katana but found that the front metal lace gromit was very uncomfortable, as it pressed against the cuticle of my big toe. Could this have been a defective shoe, or is this a normal issue with these? (yes, I have weird feet)

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 195

Hmm trying to picture how that hotspot would occur.  Only issue I ever have with TC Pros is when the side of the tongue bends in, which can be uncomfortable in cracks, but still more comfortable than any other shoe I’ve worn.  It’s possible the shoe would stretch/conform out of that...were your toes flat?

Glenn Sweeney · · San Francisco, CA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0

Toes were more or less flat. I was worried about over-sizing when I tried them on because I knew they'd stretch, but it might still be worth trying the half size up and seeing how they fit after breaking in.

Soph ia · · california! · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

I have the same problem with my Anasazi VCS (the tan ones)! My big toes get seriously bruised, for months at a time. I was fine with my previous pair, the Evolv Elektra (those purple ones that all the beginners wear). Although the Elektras are mostly a beginner pair that are really comfortable, so I wasn't sure if this was a problem with the shape of my feet or the anasazi's haha

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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