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Looking for new harness for long multipitch trad routes


Nick B · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 61

It hold my doubles through #0.1- 4 (only 1 of 0.1 and 4)  rack reasonably well and I have totems which are a bit bulky.  I sometimes climb with a chest harness that has gear loops as it makes organization easier, but it isn't required.I think the small size has smaller front gear loops which would def not hold a doubles rack.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,129

I got the small AR-395A and it easily holds a double rack with trad draws and all. The 5th gear loop on the back is marvelous.
I find the Arc'tyrx harnesses have the largest gear loops in the industry. Plus it's so much lighter than the Cadillac.
It's the most comfortable harnesses I've ever had.

Nick B · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 61

Ah good to hear it is big enough!

Jordan W · · NC · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 30

Yeah you can load the AR-395's down with gear, my favorite harness as far as storage and organization. And the hard loops make it easier to slap a biner on it fast.

Laralyn M. · · SF is home (but I live in NYC) · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 55

Interesting. The whole reason I got my MM harness was because the gear loops on my Arc'teryx were always so crammed on trad routes. (I do tend to bring a double rack with lots of stoppers and alpine draws with me.)

Buddin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 5

Black Diamond big gun all day. Climbed in Yosemite every day it that thing for 3 years straight 

kevin deweese · · Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 520

Black diamond big gun works well. I have a small waist 27” and my female partners have enjoyed this harness when I loaned it to them. 27” is pretty much the bottom limit I believe for the harness. 

Dylan Pike · · Sandy, UT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 35

Another vote for the AR-395a. I regularly climb with a double rack and 12 trad draws plus belay device, spare cord, and rescue kit clipped to the back loop.

Dead bird makes the most comfortable harnesses, in my opinion. An added bonus is the durable material that the waist belt and leg loops are made out of.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,129

That 5th gear loop in the back make a huge difference. That's where I keep all gear related to the belay stations. The two rear are for draws, front two are for pro.
The 6 gear loop harness are a pain. You end up with layers of gear. While this is ok on a stance is hard to dig in at the crux. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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