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Looking for new harness for long multipitch trad routes


Original Post
l rs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 380

I am predominantly a multipitch trad climber. I currently have a primrose harness that has barely lasted year. it also is super uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time, since it pinches me at the waist once loaded with a rack.  Looking for suggestions on a comfie harness with lots of solid gear loops and adjustable leg loops. Ideas that won't break the bank? I am looking at the Wild Country Aurora Harness  but am open to suggestions.

Christopher K. · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 170

In my opinion, Misty Mountain Cadillac without a doubt.

Max Rausch · · Portland, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 160

Another vote for the Misty Mountain Caddy'. Looks to be on sale on Backcountry currently. 

Chet Butterworth · · Chattanooga · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 460

I have the Misty Mountain Sonic. My partner uses the Misty Mountain Cadillac. Both rule for what you've described. 

l rs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 380
Max Rausch wrote: Looks to be on sale on Backcountry currently. 

Not in my size it's not! Is it worth $100+ ?  Is it that much more comfortable than a $40 harness?

Paul Morrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 0

Just wore my Cadillac for the first time last weekend, and I hated it. Leg loops constantly need re-tightening. Really annoying.

Big B · · Sin City, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1

woman in the women forum asking for womens harness advice.....all male responses :D

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Big B wrote: woman in the women forum asking for womens harness advice.....all male responses :D

Just shows you that men are more helpful. :)

Edit: I am on my second MM Cadillac and it's pretty comfy. Unless $100 will "break the bank," you should consider getting one.
Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,030
Leslie McG wrote:

Not in my size it's not! Is it worth $100+ ?  Is it that much more comfortable than a $40 harness?

Only you know how much your comfort is worth... IMO yes, a comfortable harness is worth it. Divide the $$ price by the days of use... couple cents for comfort?

I know a lot of people, including couple women,  who really like Misty Mountain Cadillac and consider it the most comfortable. That was not my experience. I really don't like how the gear loops stick up when they are not weighted with gear. And I think the belt was a bit too wide for my short torso, felt like it was pushing on the lower ribs.

At the end of the day, you need to try them on to figure which one you like. So many variables... if there was one harness that was the most comfortable for everyone, there would be only one harness sold.

Kalli Schumacher · · Chanhasssen, MN · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 1

Leslie I asked this a year ago and got a lot of responses that weren't the Cadillac. I'd take a peek at that.

I think Paul's in the minority in the leg loop situation.  I never really adjust my leg loops except in rare cases I'm wearing non-standard shoes.

In terms of is it worth it, I think that depends on just how much time you'll be spending in it and then how much time you'll be hanging.  If the answer isn't a shit-ton, probably not worth the $140(?) price tag.

If you do go with it, it's a great harness that's super comfortable with a full rack (and then some) on it and at hanging belays. The six gear loops are a plus, but the lower ones take some getting used to.

Chet Butterworth · · Chattanooga · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 460
Big B wrote: woman in the women forum asking for womens harness advice.....all male responses :D

I'm an idiot. 

Ben Horowitz · · Tokyo, JP / Berkeley, CA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 121

Both my girlfriend and I have the Metolius Safetech and love it! Quite comfy and I really like the reinforced gear loops and two belay loops for multi-pitch... https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/climbing-harnesses.html

You can usually find it on sale at the standard online retailers.

Aerili · · Los Alamos, NM · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 1,880

I agree the women's Misty Mountain harnesses are really awesome. A few years ago I switched to the Petzl Selena only because I wanted a lighter harness for multi-pitch and alpine climbing where the extra weight and bulk bothered me, but I've thought about getting another MM for climbing days where that doesn't matter (and also for ice cragging). My Petzl, however, is definitely a step down in terms of matching comfort and gear loop size to the MM.

Another option for something good for trad but lighter and less bulky is the Mammut Togira (you can get fixed or adjustable leg loops). Definitely cheaper than MM but pretty similarly comfortable - at least to me. The gear loops aren't quite as good/big as MM but bigger than many other women's harnesses. (They also have an odd shape to them but you get used to it.) There are other Mammut harnesses out there but I haven't tried them.

For the record, I hate BD harnesses and have never found them comfortable either....and the gear loops are stupid.

KathyS · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 125

I'm a Misty Mountain Cadillac fan, on my 2nd one.  I'm addicted to 6 gear loops for trad.  For ice, I recently bought a DMM Puma 2, mostly for the 4 buckles and 4 ice clipper loops.  I don't like the slanted gear loops as well as the Misty's horizontal ones, but it is quite comfortable and a touch lighter than the Caddy.

Carey De Luca · · Yucca Valley, Ca · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 10

I love my Metolious Safetech. It has lasted me for about 4 years of J Tree climbing(rough rock), many long climbs, and has at least 1,000 climbs on it.  I have a few more years before I need to replace it.  When I do, I am going with the MM Cadillac.  That is just this girl's advise.

Toria V · · Boulder · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 15

Misty's worth it...1) lotsa gear loops 2) seriously adjustable waist so your loops are actually on your sides evenly- only other harness I know of with that capable is an edelrid but the gear loops are subpar 3) it is comfy...how often do I buy a harness? not frequently enough to not spend the money to get the one that's really going to work for me

Adrienne DiRosario · · Troy, NY · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0
Toria V wrote: Misty's worth it...1) lotsa gear loops 2) seriously adjustable waist so your loops are actually on your sides evenly- only other harness I know of with that capable is an edelrid but the gear loops are subpar 3) it is comfy...how often do I buy a harness? not frequently enough to not spend the money to get the one that's really going to work for me

DMM Renegade is also set up like this. 7 gear loops and the waist is always centered. Super comfortable and my go-to harness. 

Laralyn M. · · SF is home (but I live in NYC) · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 55

I love my Misty Mountain Cadillac harness. I got the quick-adjust version (the other is too hard to adjust IMO). 6 gear loops (offset) are perfect for keeping your multipitch trad rack in order.

If, like me, you detest pink and purple on your gear, you can use Beal rope marker to cover up those horrid gendered accents!! :)

Lauren Wilson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 58

I have the black diamond ethos and it is a bit on the spendy side (not quite as bad as what some of the misty mountain one's get to) and I love it. It's super comfortable to hang in and even with a full rack I've never been pinched. 

Nick B · · Anchorage, AK · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 61

My wife loves her Arc'teryx 395a as do I.   plenty of gear room, comfy, and light.  Only downside is cost.

Laralyn M. · · SF is home (but I live in NYC) · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 55
Nick B wrote: My wife loves her Arc'teryx 395a as do I.   plenty of gear room, comfy, and light.  Only downside is cost.

I have one of those as well, and definitely love it for sport. Do you guys find you're able to get a full trad rack on that harness? 

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