Need advice on El Cap ( my 2nd time )

I did The Triple Direct in 1996 and for my midlife crisis, I have decided to climb El Capitan again.

My issue is, free climbing is my weakness. I never did lead harder than 10c and now, 5.8 whoops me.

I need to know which route has the easiest mandatory free climbing.
I'm considering either Lurking Fear or the Zodiac.

Thanks in advance .

I climbed the last 40% of Lurking Fear (after pitch 12) in free climbing shoes because it's lower angle and there is a lot of free climbing.  If you want mainly aid, do Zodiac.  Also, Zodiac has a much easier approach and decent, and much easier hauling. 

Zodiac can be done all aid. You’ll need a few more wide cams along with hooking to avoid the “5.9” wide flake pitch before a Peanut Ledge but otherwise, based upon your stipulations, Zodiac is the way to go. 

I would have thought LF could be done at 5.6.
I also thought it was C1, which is rather different to Z.

David Coley wrote: I would have thought LF could be done at 5.6.
I also thought it was C1, which is rather different to Z.

Lurking Fear has the dreaded slab top out.

Also, I learned that steeper means easier.

Easier to haul, safer to fall and easier to go up than down.
I know 5.6 with a wall rack might feel like 5.10 on the ground.
I am now 49 and plan on staying in my aiders because it's safe and controlled, even if roofs are the situation.

Alex Barlow wrote:

Lurking Fear has the dreaded slab top out.

Also, I learned that steeper means easier.

Easier to haul, safer to fall and easier to go up than down.
I know 5.6 with a wall rack might feel like 5.10 on the ground.
I am now 49 and plan on staying in my aiders because it's safe and controlled, even if roofs are the situation.

FACT

Just spend some time training and get back up to 5.10 trad first. It'll be a lot more fun that way, too. And you'll be able to move at a more reasonable pace and enjoy the quality free climbing. And you'll be in better shape! It's a win, win, win.

Peter Foster wrote: Just spend some time training and get back up to 5.10 trad first. It'll be a lot more fun that way, too. And you'll be able to move at a more reasonable pace and enjoy the quality free climbing. And you'll be in better shape! It's a win, win, win.

I don't see that happening.  Although it may be a byproduct.  Being that good free climbing requiresa lot of time.

My plan is to get on El Cap before I lose my nerve and not come down. 

Anyone inexperienced enough to climb only 5.6 on LF will fail.

I’m sorry to say, 5.6 ain’t shit. If that’s the best you can do, you shouldn’t be on El Cap. 

Mark Hudon wrote: Anyone inexperienced enough to climb only 5.6 on LF will fail.

I’m sorry to say, 5.6 ain’t shit. If that’s the best you can do, you shouldn’t be on El Cap. 

I know I could lead that, no problem. 

Lets put it another way: I expect to climb up to 5.9 when I am on the wall but prefer the option to aid, as I consider it safer. I have a family and business, I have nothing to prove about style.  Chances are if I were on the stove leg cracks I would free climb  80% of it but I really just don't know until I'm there and I remember being scared shitless on some of the 5.7 stuff on the triple direct, mainly the second pitch wide shit.
The wall was intimidating and messed with my head, causing some parts that were chill to seem gnarly.

Always, on all my bigger climbs with partners, we divide pitchs up based on each ones skill set.
 When I climbed El Capitan I was a solid 5.8 climber and I led half the route of the triple direct. Now I totally had my partner do the hard free pitches on the 1st 3rd because that was his specialty was face climbing and I prefer cracks with roofs and aid climbing, so I led the Great Roof, the penjis, the changing corners crack, etc.
 So I would never discourage somebody only climbs 5.6 from going up El Cap, what I would say is make sure that your partner is a better climber than you and what's wrong with that?

 My partner is a solid Alpine climber in the guy has big enough balls to do base jumping which I think is crazy so I'm willing to take a chance and charge up there with them but were both about the same free climbing  free climbing skill which is, we've been on hiatus for 15 years and we just wanna do a almost pure aid route that's 90% or more clean.

 I also find it difficult to get totally up-to-date route beta.
When we did the triple direct we were told that the death block on the nose was gone. When we got there it was there, balanced  on a sloping ledge and held in place with tubing. It was horrible.
 I learned that if they call something in Yosemite the death block its really dangerous!

 I appreciate everyone's advice and I look forward to hopefully posting a trip report about our success on the Zodiac.

Alex, it seems to me that you have a pretty good and honest asscessment of your skills. Get out and free climb as much as you can this summer and you’ll be good to go.

Good luck and have fun!

Have fun on Zod. Just do everything you can to get in shape (stairmaster and situps (core) and some running).

I call the shape you need to be in “Alligator Wrestling” shape. You need to be full body fit. The usual climbing fitness isn’t enough. Everything is awkward and everything is heavy.  

Well shoot.

I own a business and have a wife and kids. I have to balance it all out.

I've been having joint issues slow my training but I do have a great partner ( Rich ) and we are going for it.  We decided to do The Prow.